"Just" getting back...
I have been wanting to write for five months now. Wow! Even as I write that it has been five months since we left Israel, I cannot wrap my head around it. I often wonder how long of a grace period one gets before no longer being able to blame their absentmindedness on being a recent yored (one who has descended from a holier place). How long can I say to people, “We just got back from thirteen months in Israel.”
Since leaving Israel I have been looking for a proper marker upon which to place our descent. We left shortly after Tisha b’Av, the holiday on which we mourn for the destruction of Jerusalem. How appropriate, I thought, that this day would mark our descent into exile and my descent into the depression I was prepared to enter as we exited the land. But on Tisha b’Av, we gathered on the Haas Promenade with a group of Jews from Israel’s Masorti movement. From the promenade, one can see the most gorgeous vista of the place where the Holy Temple in Jerusalem once stood. (The destruction of this Temple is what is being mourned on this holiday.) The community gathered for the traditional reading of the book of Lamentations, a time of quiet reflection where we refrain from pleasant greetings and idle chatter. While the description of a destroyed Jerusalem was read to its somber tune, a group of young Israeli children ran back and forth on the promenade, tagging each other with their flashlights. I thought, “How can I mourn the destruction of a place that is clearly not destroyed? The modern city of Jerusalem produced these playful children. I thought about how these children would grow to don uniforms and protect this city and country from further destruction.
So Aviva and I lived out our final week and a half in Israel without giving much thought to the fact that we were actually leaving. We delayed packing as long as possible, finished up our respective work and school and enjoyed as much as we could have a Jerusalem summer. We returned to the US, reunited with family, celebrated at several friends’ weddings and returned to Massachusetts to become reacquainted with our former lives.
I thought returning to the same space would aid my transition. Aviva and I were fortunate enough to reclaim the apartment in which we lived for three years prior to our time in Jerusalem. As much stress was alleviated by returning to familiar space, more was added by the feeling that we had never really left. The movers placed our furniture in its place, our belongings made their way to their designated spots, and the nails of our mezuzot went back into their previous holes. Aside from rearranging some artwork, it was as if we had never left. Above our mantle, we placed a print that we purchased in Israel from artist, Sharon Binder. The print is a Sharon’s interpretation of the verse, “אור חדש על ציון תאיר ונזכה כולנו מהרה לאורו,” from the daily morning prayers. In translation, “May you make a new light to shine upon Zion and may we all be worthy of sharing in that light.” It is a daily message of hope for the land we love. For some time I expected that getting settled back in the United States would serve to mark the end of our adventure in Israel. As pleasant as it has been to be back, I’m not ready to declare that the adventure is over.
After the destruction of the Temple in Jerusalem, it became custom for Jews to leave a corner of their homes unfinished. This symbolized their unwillingness to fully settle in exile and their longing for return. Just a couple of weeks ago, I ran out of shampoo. Why is this relevant? My bottle of Head & Shoulders is one of a few remnants of products around our house that we purchased in Israel. Every morning I would look at the bottle and smile. It stood as a reminder that it wasn’t long ago that I was living in Israel and shopping for products with Hebrew labels. When the bottle ran out it was as if, in a really silly and sorta-meaningless way, so did my right to say, “I just returned…” However, I still feel as if I am in transition. So I ran down the street to Shaw’s and bought a bottle of store brand shampoo. When I returned home, I proceeded to funnel my new shampoo into the not-so-old Hebrew bottle. I will remain in limbo as long as I can, grasping onto tiny symbols of my promised land.
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On a not totally unrelated note. Here is a great piece by Rabbi Joel Seltzer about an American Jew’s longing for Israel and the struggles that come along with it. I agree whole-heartedly.
Proud to live in Israel…גאים לגור בישראל

Aviva and Scott below sea level. A yet unposted picture from our anniversary trip.
Our anniversary trip to the Dead Sea is nearly two months behind us. However, life has been so busy since then that we don’t have any other adorable pictures of us touring the country to post. Aviva had been working to finish up her last semester at the IDC and her last bit of work with the DP’s Israel team. I took a job this summer working for the United Synagogue of Conservative Judaism’s (USCJ) Israel Pilgrimage program. While I’ve been having a good time, they keep me very busy.
One of the perks of working for the USCJ in Israel is the location. They are very centrally located in the heart of Jerusalem. Most exciting things happening in the city are easily accessible from my summer office, if not happening directly outside of it. This past week, I’ve had the opportunity to witness those fighting for political and social change in this country from the door of my office building.
In addition to the two protests on which I will soon elaborate, there has been a doctor’s strike going on in Israel for over 100 days. In public medical centers, only emergency surgeries are being performed. The Israel Medical Association is hoping to put themselves in a better position to care for Israel’s sick. With Israel’s socialized medicine program, they feel that they are being taken advantage of.
Also, last week there were “Stroller Marches” where thousands of families took to the streets to protest the rising cost of raising children in Israel.
On Thursday, people gathered in Jerusalem’s Independence Park for the city’s annual Pride March. A larger version of the Jerusalem Pride March took place in Tel Aviv last month. I went over to Independence Park to check out the scene. I was amazed at how this gathering had somehow mixed into the landscape of other demonstrations going on in Israel these days. For some time, protesters have been camping out in tents around the country demanding more affordable housing. (More on this later.) The demonstrators camped out at Independence Park had put signs on their tents in reference to the other protests going on in the country:

Housing protest tents in the foreground. Pride gathering in the background.

A handful of housing protest tents in Jerusalem’s Independence Park.

A sign on one of the tents referencing the doctor’s strike. It reads, “Save Public Healthcare in Israel.”

A personal favorite: The Hebrew word g’eh means pride. It can also mean gay. This sign announces that the inhabitants of this tent are Proud/Gay to live in a tent.
Not pictured: Another sign mixing the housing protest and the Pride Parade read: “I have to live in the closet because I can’t afford an apartment!”

The Pride Parade passes by my office building.

The Pride Parade continues and heads toward the Parliament building.

Students from my program watch the parade and cheer on the marchers.
Of course, such a parade in Jerusalem was not without a fair bit of counter protest from the ultra-Orthodox. Thank God, the counter protests were nothing like they were in 2005 when an ultra-Orthodox man attacked three protesters with a kitchen knife. This year, one man was arrested for throwing stink bombs at passersby.
Last night, just two nights after the Pride March, Israeli’s took to the streets again demanding Social Justice. An estimated 150,000 Israelis marched in ten cities around the country with the hope of making life easier for your average middle class family. My understanding is that over the past twenty years, the government began to move the country away from its socialist past and privatize parts of the country’s education and healthcare systems. Thus, middle class families today find themselves having to pay for services that were provided by the government just a short time ago. Combined with the rising cost of housing in most of Israel’s cities, life is rough for your average middle class family just trying to make ends meet. Israelis are divided on this issue. On the one hand, the cost of living in Israel’s cities is high and much money goes to subsidize the Ultra-Orthodox establishment in these cities. On the other, it is not necessarily one’s right to get to live in the big city. If you can’t afford to live in the big city, there are plenty more affordable places to live in Israel. In which case, it would make more sense for these protestors to be advocating for better public transportation from other parts of the country to Jerusalem and Tel Aviv for work etc.
It is yet unclear what sort of effect all of these demonstrations will have long term. Just today, the Chief of Treasury quit and PM Netanyahu put together a task force to deal with the housing crisis. It will be interesting to see if these demonstrations turn into any sort of political power that will yield systematic change.

The March for Social Justice passes in front of my office building.

As they get closer to the rally site you can begin to see how many people were present.

My coworkers and I had prime seats for the rally on the balcony of our office building.

I walked through the protest on my way home from work.

It is difficult to read this sign because of the poor quality of my iPod camera, but it says, “Tahrir Square is not just in Cairo” (In Hebrew it rhymes, Kikar Tahrir zen lo rak b’Kahir.”
The sign above is telling of the sort of social revolution the protesters last night are trying to create. Up until this past week, folks in Israel joked about how Israelis had recently used Facebook to demand that the price of cottage cheese be reduced in Israeli supermarkets. While they were successful, something about last night’s demonstration is telling PM Netanyahu to take this one more seriously.
I am proud that the Jewish State is one where these sorts of demonstrations can happen freely and without violence. During last night’s protest, police officers blocked roads and stopped traffic. They ensured the security of those demonstrating rather than being violent or trying to silence citizens. At the beginning of the rally, the organizers made an announcement requesting that attendees keep it peaceful and non-violent. The attendees did just that. This is also a source of pride for those of us who witnessed this potentially historical event.
Jerusalem: City of...Competing Narratives

Aviva takes a moment out of a rather serious Jerusalem
narratives tour to be not so serious.
Over the last several weeks I have had the opportunity to visit places in and around Jerusalem and meet with groups of people whom I may not have encountered on my own. Two of the three trips happened the same week and each was unique. How can it be that three separate tours of Jerusalem within such a short time could be so different? Really, none of them overlapped in location or in ideology. All these trips made me think and I am glad to have had the experiences with my classmates and co-workers.
The first tour was on May 24 with my class from the IDC. I was in a course in the spring semester called Seminar in the Arab-Israeli conflict. 12 of us spent 3 hours a week teaching and learning from each other about various complicated topics within the Arab-Israeli conflict — one of which was Jerusalem. The focus of this trip was to give us some physical perspective on the topics we had been studying all semester.
We began near the UN headquarters in the Shalom forest at an overlook of the whole city with our tour guide, Hagit Ofrane (director of the Settlement Watch Program of Shalom Achshav - www.peacenow.org.il - check it out for an interactive map of Jerusalem and the surrounding area). We looked at the city in front of us and compared the view with a map of the city marked with, what Peace Now considers settlements — i.e.. Jewish neighborhoods in the eastern and northern parts of Jerusalem. Our guide and the organization she represents, believe that Jewish neighborhoods in those parts of the city and in the West Bank are an obstacle to peace. After getting the overview and background we began to drive around the city and visit some of the neighborhoods we had seen from the hilltop outlook.
We visited Jewish areas within the mostly Arab neighborhoods of Jabal Mukaber, Ras al Amud and A-Tur. These neighborhoods are on the eastern border of Jerusalem and right up along the security barrier. It was very interesting to see the 'reality on the ground' and to get the perspective of an activist rather than just academic perspective we had been studying. It was easy to see in some of the places we visited that the Jewish area was more developed than the Arab neighborhood surrounding it. This, is mostly because wealthy foreign backers invest in building up Jewish areas in eastern Jerusalem. On this tour we did not meet with any residents — we just got a broad overview from Hagit. The most interesting part for me was visiting neighborhoods that I would never have visited otherwise.
Two days later, I joined my Pardes Peace and Conflict track classmates for another romp around this amazing city. This time the focus was on narratives and meeting with folks who have different views about territories, power, and peace. The first part of the trip was with an organization called Im Eshkachech (Keep Jerusalem - www.keepjerusalem.org). The goal of this organization is to advocate for Jerusalem to remain a unified city under Israel control. One of the ways they attempt to reach this goal is by encouraging Jews and Arabs to settle anywhere in the city, thereby creating facts on the ground that would make dividing the city (even using the Geneva Plan) very difficult if not impossible. With this group we traveled by bus to the northern-most neighborhood of Jerusalem, Atarot,and we visited a part of the separation barrier that is actually built inside the municipal boundaries of the city making it necessary for Jerusalem residents who live on the other side of the barrier, in the neighborhood of Kfar 'Aqab, to have to pass through a checkpoint if they want to come into the rest of Jerusalem for work, shopping, etc. We then drove through the neighborhoods of Neve Ya'akov and Pisgat Ze'ev on our way to Hussein's Palace. This area is a hilltop in between Shu'afat and Pisgat Ze'ev apparently still owned by the royal family of Jordan. There is a two-story structure here that was in the midst of being built for the king of Jordan in 1967. There is an amazing 360 degree view from here of the whole city — north to Ramallah, south to the center of town.

King Hussein’s Palace, as mentioned in the previous paragraph.

The view from King Hussein’s Palace
After the hearing from the Im Eshkachech folks we went to the neighborhood of Shiekh Jarrah (also known as Shimon Hatzadik by some). Shiekh Jarrah is the sight of weekly protests by members of the Shiekh Jarrah Solidarity Movement (http://www.en.justjlm.org/) who argue that Arabs should not be kicked out of the homes so that Jews can move in. We first met with one of the activists in the movement who tried to explain some of the complexities of the neighborhood and why there is controversy specifically here (it seems that some Palestinian refugees from Jaffa, Haifa and other places were offered an accepted compensation in 1948 by the Jordanians in the form of housing/land in the Jerusalem area in exchange for their refugee claims. In 1967 Israeli laws kicked in and some land that had been owned by Jews prior to 1948 was being reclaimed. The people who live in the neighborhood now seem to be caught in the middle).
We then went to meet with Mohamad and Nabil who have each had parts of their homes demolished because they built additions on to their homes without proper permits (perhaps because they were not granted permits by the municipality and needed to expand anyway). Nabil now has a Jewish family living in the extension that he built several years ago. The who situation is a big balagan and I don't know how it will be resolved. For now, there are protests every Friday and tensions continue to rise between the Arab and Jewish residents of the area.

A “shared” courtyard by Nabil and Jewish residents of Shiekh Jarrah.
The last stop on the Pardes tour was at the Imperial Hotel just inside the Jaffa gate of the Old City. There we met with a professor Mohammed Dajani Doudi. He, like our teacher, R' Daniel Roth, is trying to teach and write about peaceful understandings of their respective religions. The Professor recently wrote a book called Wasatia: Centrism and Moderation in Islam, about a moderate and peaceful understanding of Islam. Unlike the more extreme activists we met earlier in the day, Professor Dajani is working towards understanding and peaceful coexistence through his writing and activism. We were treated to a beautiful view of the old city from the roof of the hotel and a wonderful conversation with him about his vision. Unfortunately, I had to leave this last visit a little early but the contrast between the two trips in the same week in the same city is still making me think and process.

One of the views of the Old City from the Imperial Hotel.
A few weeks later some DP colleagues went on a tour of Jerusalem to test out some potential program ideas should we want to bring our students from the US on a trip to Israel. We met with Jerusalem Reality Tours (jerusalemrealitytours.com) founder, Rotem and Ateret Kohanim (in US they are called the Jerusalem Reclamation Project - www.jrpisrael.com) rep. Daniel for a day that focused on Jews living in predominantly Arab neighborhoods of Jerusalem. This trip had the same theme as the trip with the IDC but, like the trip with Pardes, also focused on narratives.
We spent the morning in the Silwan/Ir David area of Jerusalem. The best part of this was getting to visit with the Al-Bana family in their home, which, like Nabil's home in Shiekh Jarrah, had a section demolished several times for not having proper permits. We met with three generations of al-Bana women who all live together in the home right outside the Old City walls. Rotem and Amjad (a Palestinian-Israeli who is training with Rotem to give the tours) helped translate the Arabic. The women offered us tea and told us that they want peace just like us but when we pushed them a little bit further about their vision for peace it was clear that their version of peace does not include Jews in Jerusalem.

Aviva and her colleagues visit with the al-Bana family.
What was striking about this visit was how hospitable and welcoming they were and yet how much misunderstanding and hate there is on a bigger level. With Rotem and Amjad, we walked around the City of David area and they pointed out Jewish homes amongst the Arab ones. The last stop in Silwan was a visit to the community center. There, totally funded by the residents is a library and computer room for the kids and a place for local activists to meet. Throughout the day the chats with Amjad were also eye opening. He has no problem with Jews but he doesn't understand why a religion should get a land. When I tried to explain that the Jewish people are a nation that share much more than just the religion I realized that in spite of having really great English, Amjad and I were speaking different languages. How can you connect with someone on a personal level and yet still not be able to understand each other?

The Silwan community center.
The rest of the day was spent with Daniel from Ateret Kohanim. With him we visited some of the Jewish neighborhoods that Peace Now would call settlements. Daniel described Ateret Kohanim as a 'holy real estate agency' that connects Jews who want to live in Jerusalem with available apartments. Each Jewish home in Arab neighborhoods has full time armed security and the residents don't go around town without guards. It was really interesting to see the different perspectives of Jews living among Arabs. For some it is something to be immensely proud of - Jews living anywhere in Israel is a mitzvah and a miracle - something to be celebrated and encouraged. For others it is the biggest tragedy they could imagine. Surprisingly, or maybe not so, I think that some of the folks I met over the last few weeks who seem to be on opposite ends of the political spectrum actually would agree with each other about what the fate of Jerusalem should be - the al-Banas and Ateret Kohanim, for example, do not want to see Jerusalem divided. But their vision for peace looks very different from one another.
The more I learn about this place and this conflict the more I learn how much more there is to learn. It is complicated and scary and beautiful. Jerusalem will never cease to amaze me, inspire me and fill me with hope.
A few highlights we left out...

Standing at a cornerstone of the Beit Hamikdash. This Herodian paving stone
stands 20 amot (≈ 40 ft.) from its counterpart on the other side of the
Dome of the Rock, where the Holy of Holies once stood.
There were a few details from the past few months left out of my last post. As promised, I will mention them now.
In late April, my class took a tour of the Temple Mount with Frankie Snyder. Frankie used to work for Hebrew College. She emigrated from the US to Israel about five years ago. For the past several years, Frankie has been working at Emek Tzurim, the Temple Mount Sifting Project. This controversial project began in 1999, after the Waqf (a Muslim religious authority) undertook an illegal digging project on the Temple Mount. The Israeli government took issue that the archaeological integrity of the site was not preserved in their expansion project. Thousands of years of Jewish history were bulldozed off the site into large piles of refuse. After a long legal battle, the piles were relocated to Emek Tzurim in 2005. Since then, groups of archeologists and volunteers have been sifting through the material to try to recover the damaged history that is contained within them. While working for the project, Frankie obtained her license to be a tour guide in Israel. She specializes in tours of the Temple Mount.
Unlike other tours that focus on what stands on the Temple Mount today (Al Aqsa Mosque, The Dome of the Rock etc.), Frankie tells the story of what stood in that space two millennia ago. She reminded me that the story of the Temple Mount is the Jewish People’s story, and what a disgrace it is that Jews have such limited access to it today. Jews are only allowed on the Temple Mount during certain times, prohibited from praying up there or demonstrating any obvious signs of Jewish observance and restricted from entering the Dome of the Rock. (Classically, Jews should not go near the area of the Dome of the Rock anyway. As the Holy of Holies was restricted to cohanim, the rest of the Jewish caste system were forbidden from entering. Frankie made sure to point out in which areas we were permitted to walk, and which were more touchy.)

The courtyard of the Al Aqsa mosque. Ancient columns have been repurposed and mismatched. Those that were plated with gold have been long stripped. You can still see gold specks on some of the pillars.

The Dome of the Rock and the stairs that we ascended toward it.

Solomon’s Stables today. For a picture from during construction, click here.

Aviva on the Temple Mount.
The moral of the story from our tour guide: “The more Jews who understand about OUR Temple Mount, the sooner we will be able to demand greater access to it.”
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A few days later, we went on a trip up North with my classmates from Hebrew College. We missed the first day of the trip as Aviva was not feeling well, but were able to meet them the next day. Our home base for Shabbat was a hotel called Ohalo, right on the Sea of Gallilee. As we met up with the group, they were about to begin a hike in the lower Golan Heights called Jilaboon. We joined for the hike and subsequent swimming under the nearby waterfall.

Heading down into Jilaboon with some of my classmates, their spouses and our guide.

Aviva did not go swimming as she was still getting over being sick, but here is a picture of me under the waterfall. Yes, the rainbow is real. And yes, the water was FREEZING!
After our hike, we had a delightful Shabbat back at the hotel. Our community had the chance to enjoy meals together and pray together. (Unfortunately, we did not have so many opportunities to do this in our Israel year.) That evening, we played board/card games and celebrated in the hotel lobby. On Shabbat afternoon, we took a walk along the shore of the Sea of Galilee toward the famous Kinnerit Cemetery. This is the burial place of several of Israel’s most well-known poets and songwriters. Most famous among them are the poetess Rachel and singer/songwriter Naomi Shemer. I cannot imagine a more beautiful or peaceful place to be buried. After Shabbat we returned to Jerusalem. Our trip was short, but very sweet.
The ending of my formal learning in Israel came shortly after. Classes ended at Hartman, the Conservative Yeshiva and then at Pardes. We said goodbye to the majority of the friends we’d made this year who were heading back to the U.S. Just like that, it seemed as if the tone of our time in Israel changed. Aviva finished up her spring semester and we both began preparing for our summer learning and working.
We took a break to celebrate our 4th wedding anniversary on June 10th. The day before, we drove to the Dead Sea for a day at the spa and sitting by the pool. Heck! Haven’t we earned it after 4 years!

We stopped on the way home to take this picture along the Dead Sea along the Jordanian border.
Aviva has been working hard and is gearing up for her last semester at the IDC. I began working for USY Pilgrimage, a teen Israel travel program through the USCJ. And so, our second summer in Israel begins!
The most wonderful time of the year!

Celebrating Israel’s 63 birthday with the traditional plastic hammers and
“snow”.
The past two months have been a whirlwind of celebration and memorial. The Israeli calendar from Passover through Shavuot is a melting pot of emotion. The country experiences its highest highs and its lowest lows during this time. As spring comes, the flowers and fruit trees begin to blossom. You cannot walk a few feet without taking in the sweet smells of Israeli spring. Observant Jews go searching for two fruit trees in bloom on which to make Birkat Ha’Ilanot, the blessing of the trees. Birkat Ha’Ilanot is a blessing said once a year during the Hebrew month of Nisan. Its text is:
“Barukh Ata Ado-nai, El-oheinu, Melech Ha’olam, shelo hasair b’olamo kloom, ubara bo briyot tovot v’ilanot tovot, leihanot bahem b’nai adam.”
“Blessed are You, G-d, our Lord, King of the Universe, whose world is not lacking anything,
and He created in it good creations and good trees for the pleasure of mankind."
The spirit of this blessing prevails during this time. There is a sense of abundance and beauty as Israelis prepare for the Passover holiday. Aviva and I were fortunate enough to be invited months ago to attend seder (the “order” of the Passover meal) at my Rosh Yeshiva’s (Head of School) home. We were warned that we would be given cooking/cleaning responsibilities, would share the obligation to teach at the seder table, and that his family’s tradition is to stay at the table all night singing and learning until it is time for morning prayers. We accepted this invitation with excitement and anxiousness.
Before I get to the seder, the lead-up to Passover included several “rak b’yisrael” (only in Israel (and perhaps Brooklyn?)) experiences that must be shared. The first is Passover shopping. In the US, we find ourselves rushing to the supermarkets well before the holiday to get our hands on their limited supply of Kosher for Passover food before things run out. Here we did not have that fear. The shelves in the markets were well stocked. Even if we were not able to get something we wanted, we knew that there would be many restaurants open during Passover that would serve the things we wanted. Therefore our preparations were much more relaxed than in the US.
Speaking of preparations, in most places in the US Passover preparations are done in the home. In Jerusalem it is a public effort. People take the streets for help with preparing dishes that are kosher for Passover and fulfilling some of the other mitzvot of Passover. See the pictures below for examples:
On Jerusalem street corners before Passover, you will find large vats of
boiling water for “hagalah,” one of the processes for making utensils kosher
for passover. Many corners also offer “libbun,” another of these processes.
On the morning before the Seder, the city of Jerusalem puts out large bins for
“Biur Hametz,” or the removal of leavening. This is done by burning the remaining leavening found in the final “Bedikat Hametz,” or search for leavening, the night before. With all that burning bread, the entire city of Jerusalem smells like toast!
Supermarkets in Jerusalem are Kosher for Passover too! Areas with products
that contain leaven are shrink wrapped until after the holiday.
After joining in all of the pre-festival fun, we were ready to begin the holiday. (The first seder happened to fall on my birthday this year!) In preparation for our all night seder, we napped a good portion of the day and made sure to have a solid snack as we were warned that our meal would not be served until 3 am. To most people (myself included) an all-night seder sounds like a bit much. What would we do for all of that time? What would happen when we got tired? Our hosts, the family of Rabbi Daniel Landes, have been doing Passover this way for a long time. Their seder was like nothing we’ve ever experienced. For each step of the seder, someone at the table was assigned to give a teaching. Between these teachings and Rav Landes’ instructions, we approached each step of the meal with great intention. I am a firm believer that enthusiasm breeds enthusiasm. Rav Landes had enough enthusiasm to share with all of us. We discussed, learned, sang, acted etc. all night long. Shockingly, there wasn’t a moment where Aviva and I were bored or felt like things were dragging on. In fact, we had to interrupt our singing at the end of the meal because the sun was coming up and it was time for morning prayers! I am grateful to the Landes family for including us in their celebration this year. It added immensely to my enjoyment of the holiday.
Also unlike the US, in Israel there is only one festive seder meal on Passover. (I won’t go into detail right now, but if you are curious why, click here.) So after our 12-hour seder extravaganza, we slept for a few hours and the first part of the holiday was almost over. Hol ha-Moed, the informal intermediate days of the holiday, was a blast. Most of the country is off from work and school during this time, so people are out and about. We enjoyed eating in Kosher for Passover restaurants and wandering about the city. On the last days of the holiday, we ordered in our festive meal from a local Italian place that served top-notch Kosher for Passover pasta and gnocchi!
A few days after Passover was Yom ha-Shoah v’ha-gevurah, or Holocaust and Heroism Remembrance Day. It is a day of mourning in Israel. Restaurants close early in the evening, mournful music plays on the radio and for two minutes the entire country stops in its tracks in silent memoriam to those who where murdered in the Holocaust. See my video of the Yom HaShoah siren here-->Yom HaShoah Jerusalem 2011Siren. Our friend Yael came to visit us from Herzliya in order to attend the giant memorial service at Yad Va’Shem, Israel’s Shoah Memorial. Those two minutes were a microcosm of the entire day. For one day Israel mourns and at sunset the country returns to “normal.”
Following Yom HaShoah, a week later comes Yom Ha-Zikaron. Yom HaZikaron is Israel’s memorial day to its fallen soldiers. This year the country mourned 24,000 fallen soldiers and victims of terror in this history of the Modern State of Israel. As evening approaches, the songs on Israeli radio again switch to the minor key, restaurants and shops close and residents flock to the many communal and national tekesim (ceremonies) to memorialize their fallen. We attended a ceremony at Sultan’s Pool outside of the walls of the Old City. The ceremony began shortly after the first of two sirens that occur on Yom HaZikaron. The first being at the start of the day (holidays in Israel begin at sunset as days begin in the Hebrew/Lunar calendar) and the second in the middle. Here is a video of the first Yom HaZikaron siren as we waited for the memorial ceremony to begin-->Yom HaZikaron 2011 Siren 1.
The ceremony was very powerful. That is to say as powerful as we could experience not having served in the IDF or (Thank God) having lost dear friends or family in any of Israel’s wars or terror attacks. Poems were read, songs were sung, and speeches were made. All the while we contemplated the loss of 24,000 of our brethren.
As a pre-State immigrant and former journalist, Marlin Levin (with his wife, Betty) share with the Pardes community their story.
The next morning at Pardes, we had the great honor of hearing from Marlin Levin, a former journalist for the Palestine Post (the predecessor to the Jerusalem Post) who shared with us his stories of working as a photographer and journalist in pre-State Israel. His presentation was perfect for the afternoon of Yom HaZikaron. He told us of the hard work and loss endured by his generation so that there could be a Jewish State. His slideshow was interrupted by the second of the two Yom HaZikaron sirens-->Yom HaZikaron Siren 2011 2.You can see a sampling of Marlin’s photography and read his heroic story here.
Toward evening on Yom HaZikaron things begin to feel a bit bizarre. Immediately following Yom HaZikaron is Yom HaAtzmaut, Israel’s Independence Day. The country transitions from its lowest low to its highest high in a matter of minutes. I am not sure if this sort of feeling exists in other religions/national observances. It strikes me as being very Jewish. At the end of a a Jewish wedding we break a glass to symbolize the destruction of the Temple in Jerusalem. At the height of our joy we remember that we are somehow still in mourning. We seem to be able to switch between these emotions with ease. As Jews traditionally recite in their prayers each morning, “One may lie down weeping at nightfall; but in the morning there are shouts of joy.” (Psalm 30:6) As Yom HaZikaron comes to an end there are more tekesim (ceremonies). These are called tekesay ma’avar (transition ceremonies). We spent our transition time between the two holidays at Jerusalem’s Great Synagogue. There we prayed the afternoon service in mourning, heard some words of consolation from one of Israel’s Chief Rabbis, Rabbi Shlomo Amar, and then prayed the evening service with Hallel (songs of praise). 
A transitional ceremony between Memorial Day and Independence Day
inside of Jerusalem’s Great Synagogue.
We had no idea what we were in for when we left the Great Synagogue. We had heard stories of Israel’s Independence Day celebrations, but had no clue if some if its seemingly outdated customs were still observed today. We did not know if restaurants would be open or just how many people would be out in the streets. From the moment we hit the streets, we were in the middle of a raging party. Vendors sold plastic hammers and spray “snow” with which children ran around and attacked each other. There was live music in all of the towns major squares. The closest parallel I can draw is to say that the entire city was like Times Square on New Year’s Eve. 
Celebrants on Ben Yehudah Street at the very beginning of the holiday.
Jerusalem’s Mayor, Nir Barkat, was out greeting the people!
Fireworks over the city in honor of Independence Day.
Even security guards got into the spirit! This one pulls out his inflatable hammer and challenges our group to a duel. No one seems to know why this tradition exists. Same with the spray cans of “snow”. Who really cares? It’s fun!
One of Jerusalem’s public squares had Israeli dancing going on all night long.
Try to see the sea of people in the background. There wasn’t room to move. This was near 1 a.m. and there were no signs of the party winding down.
The next day we joined the rest of the country in Israel’s parks for festive barbecues.
After spending Yom HaAtzmaut in Israel, I just can’t imagine ever spending it anywhere else. It was amazing to experience the diversity of Jerusalem and the expressions of pure joy over Israel’s existence.
Next up: Lag B’Omer! The period between Passover and Shavuot is called the omer. The Torah commands us to count each of the 49 days between Passover and Shavuot. On the second day of Passover the “omer” or sheaf offering was offered in the Temple. From that time we count seven weeks and then have another festival, called Shavuot (weeks). The period of the omer is one of self reflection and mourning. We reflect because the rabbinic tradition teaches us that on Shavuot we received the Torah from God at Mt. Sinai. So the omer is partially a time to prepare ourselves for revelation.
There is another rabbinic tradition that there was a plague (likely the Bar Kokhba revolt) that killed 24,000 of the famous Rabbi Akiva’s students that ceased on Lag B’Omer, which literally means the 33rd day of the omer. Thus, the 33rd day of the omer is seen as a day when we take a break from the omer’s mourning rituals. Another tradition ascribes Lag b’Omer as the yahrzeit (anniversary) of the death of Rabbi Shimon Bar Yochai. Rabbi Shimon Bar Yochai (RASHB”Y) is believed to be the author of the Zohar, a book of Jewish mystical traditions. Therefore, on Lag b’Omer there is a tradition to light huge bonfires to represent the mystical light that RASHB”Y brought into this world.
In Israel, these fires are taken very seriously. I mean that in two ways. In the northern town of Meron, at the site of RASHB”Y’s grave, there are huge bonfires. Attending them is seen as a very spiritual experience that can be a folk remedy for all sorts of afflictions. In other parts of Israel, children begin gathering wood the entire week before Lag b’Omer because who just doesn’t love setting huge piles of kindling on fire? Did I say kindling? That also includes old furniture, shipping palettes and anything else that will burn.
This bonfire was prepared two days before in Jerusalem’s neighborhood of
Har Nof.
One of the local fires in the Valley of the Cross. We are standing 30 ft. away and up on a large mound. There is still a hole in the asphalt from where the fire burned.
Students unload a truck full of wood from a nearby overpass that will eventually become the bonfire pictured above.
There is a custom not to shave during the period of the omer. Myself and some of the boys at Pardes decided to honor our newfound ability to shave on Lag b’Omer by celebrating ‘Stache Sunday.
The final two celebrations of this season were Yom Yerushalayim (Jerusalem Day) and Shavuot. Yom Yerushalayin is a celebration of the reunification of the Old City of Jerusalem following the 1967 Six Day War. Some people spend this day touring in the Old City and visiting the Western Wall. We celebrated in the hills of Jerusalem wine tasting with friends. I hope to write more about that in our next post
On Shavuot, we were invited out for a festive meal at a friend’s house. Afterwards, we participated in a tikkun leil shavuot, an all night learning session in preparation for revelation. Well, not all night. Unlike in past years, we eventually succumbed to a solid night of revelatory sleep.
Thus ended the festive spring season in Israel. It was unlike any we’ve spent outside of Israel in our lives.
Coming soon: Our trip to the Temple Mount, the last Hebrew College Shabbaton, finishing a year of learning, our anniversary celebration and a few thoughts on American rabbinical students and their relationship to the State of Israel.
Candle to Candle

From Left to Right: Sibyl (Mom), Mark (Dad), Robin (Sister),
Abigail (Niece),David (Bro. in-law), Marti (Sister), Aviva and Me.
At the Western Wall in Jerusalem!
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But first, a side note: A few interesting things happened between my last post and my family’s visit. At the moment I am much more excited to write about family. But just in case I do not get to it later, on March 8th I had the opportunity to visit the city of Hebron with my dear friend, Ariel Zellman. Ariel shared his expertise of the area and introduced us to his friend, David Wilder, who is a spokesperson for the Jewish residents of Hebron. Until I get the opportunity to write about my visit, read Ariel’s blog post about his interview with David this past August. In it he shares much of what he shared with me during our walk around the city.
The other brief excitement in our lives before family came was the holiday of Purim. Our celebration was festive and included a visit from our friend and biblical scholar, Dr. David Bernat. Together with David, Aviva and I spent Purim bouncing back and forth between festive meals with teachers, classmates and friends. I hope to share more details about Purim in Israel in another post, but for now see my photography page for a few pictures from the day.
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Aviva and I shlepped a lot with us to Israel. However, there were a few things we had to acquire once we arrived. One small item we purchased was a Havdalah candle. Havdalah is the Hebrew word for separation. At the end of Shabbat and holidays, it is customary to mark the separation between the holy time that has passed (the holiday) and the profane that lays ahead (the rest of the week). At the end of Shabbat this separation is made over wine (wine is traditionally used to mark sacred times), spices (to carry the sweet smell of Shabbat into the rest of the week) and by lighting a candle (representing our ability to create fire, an act from which we refrain during Shabbat). After we moved into our apartment, we picked up an inexpensive havdalah candle at the supermarket. It occurred to us to hold out and buy something a bit prettier from one of the local shops, but in the moment utilitarianism won. We promised ourselves that when my family came to visit and we made our way up north to the Tzfat Candle Factory, we would buy something a bit more special. In the meantime, as Shabbat ended each week we would pour out a bit of wine, grab some fresh Louisa Verbena from our garden and light our simple braided candle...
My parents arrived at Ben Gurion Airport for their first trip to Israel on March 23rd. I waited somewhat impatiently at the arrivals gate for them and my aunt and uncle. I still find it hard to believe that they were really here. I joined them as the met their tour group and headed for Tel Aviv. After checking in to the hotel, their group had time to unwind at the hotel. We couldn’t have them sitting around on their first morning in Israel, so I took them around town. After checking out some cafes, Dizingoff and Ben Yehudah Streets and Kikar Rabin, we returned to their hotel to rest. Having left for the airport just after 4 am, I was thrilled to take a little nap.

I woke from my nap to the sound of my cell phone ringing. It was Aviva calling from where she was working in southern Jerusalem that day. She told me that there was a pigua, a terrorist attack, near the Jerusalem Central Bus Station. A bomb exploded outside of a kiosk on Shazar Street as a 74 bus passed by. One woman was killed and a couple dozen more were injured. Call me shallow or self-centered, but as much as I feared for those injured by the bombing, I also feared having to be the one to wake my parents and tell them what had happened. It wasn’t so long ago that my folks were fretting about my traveling to Israel as busses were blowing up on a regular basis. I finally get them here and there is an attack on the first day. I was frazzled, but pissed off even more so.
My family handled the event like pros. (I am deeply saddened that folks in this region have become “pros” when it comes to dealing with terror attacks.) They worried for my safety as I traveled back from Jerusalem to Tel Aviv, but went on with their trip as scheduled, enjoying all there was to enjoy. With many thanks to God and hopefully without inviting the evil eye, Jerusalem has been free from attacks of this sort since the day of my parent’s arrival.
Two days later Jerusalem was preparing to host its first ever marathon. While we had many friends participating in the half-marathon that day, we left the city at 5:30 am to avoid getting caught in Jerusalem after all of the road closings. We had to go to the airport to pick up my siblings! On the way, we joined my parents and aunt and uncle at their hotel for breakfast and a trip to Independence Hall. Independence Hall is the only place in Israel to ever make me cry and it does so every time. When I imagine the excitement, the crowds lining the streets outside of Independence Hall and hear Ben Gurion’s voice proclaim, “אנו מכריזים בזאת על הקמת מדינה יהודית בארץ ישראל, היא מדינת ישראל/We declare the establishment of the Jewish state in the Land of Israel, to be called The State of Israel,” I am overcome with emotion and tears of joy and relief well up in my eyes. Partaking in the reenactment of that moment on May 14, 1948 alongside my parents was quite special for me.

Dad listens to tour at Independence Hall in Tel Aviv.
After Independence Hall we said a temporary goodbye to my parents and aunt and uncle so that we could go to Ben Gurion airport to pick up my siblings. Our apartment had been arranged to handle five adults and an infant, Shabbat meals had already been prepared and the last test would be to squeeze everyone and their luggage into the Mazda 5 we rented for the week. It was amazing to see Marti, Robin, David and baby Abby exit from the arrivals gate at the airport. We rushed to greet them and let the adventure begin.

Aviva rushes to greet the siblings at Ben Gurion Airport.

Auntie V and Uncle Scott welcome baby Abby to Israel!
With a very squished Aviva in the very back and lots of luggage on everyone’s laps, we squeezed into the car for the trip back to Jerusalem. We arrived, dumped the suitcases and took a walk up our street to try to grab a bite of falafel before our local falafel joint closed for Shabbat. We were fortunate enough that they had a few falafel balls and some kubeh soup left over. We set up shop back at the apartment and had lunch while everyone got reacquainted. That first Shabbat was really just about spending time together. We had nothing special planned. Just a day of chatting, resting up and walking around the town. It was really great to spend the time with my niece, Abigail. When we left her in the US she was just a month old! The ten month-old little girl who came to visit us was quite different! On Shabbat we walked from our apartment to Mishkenot Sheananim, up past Jaffa Gate and through Mamilla Mall until we headed back to the apartment for Shabbat Lunch. After lunch we took a walk to Gan Sacher to play on the playground and visit the Jerusalem Bird Observatory. We even saw the family of porcupines that live there!

Uncle Scott and Abby took a pre-Shabbat nap together!
After Shabbat, we marked our separation from this special Shabbat to a crazy week of touring with Havdalah. Our supermarket Havdalah candle had one more go remaining. At the end, the flame got so low that I fumbled it into the sink to extinguish it... We bundled up and walked to Ben Yehuda Street for shopping and an after Shabbat snack at Babette’s. Babette’s is a tiny storefront that serves up Belgian waffles smothered in all sorts of yummy combinations. Abby really enjoyed this part!

“Daddy chocolate finger painted on me!”
On Sunday morning we woke up early to head to Tel Aviv. We had breakfast on Dizengoff Street, stopped back at Independence Hall and then dropped by Old Jaffa for some pastries at Aboulafia bakery and a quick tour.

Chillin’ in Jaffa overlooking the city of Tel Aviv
Our next stop took us up north to the mystical town of Tzfat. We walked around the town, visited the famous synagogue of Rabbi Joseph Caro, window shopped at many of the town’s galleries and eventually made our way to the Tzfat Candle Factory. With a full week still ahead of us, Aviva and I finally got to pick out a beautiful havdalah candle... The girls bought some scarves and we caught a magnificent sunset up in the mountains.

Scarf shopping in Tzfat

Abby shops with Auntie V at the Tzfat Candle Factory.

Robin, David and Abby getting ready to watch a gorgeous Tzfat Sunset.
After leaving Tzfat, we headed way up north to Kibbutz HaGoshrim to meet my parents’ tour group. It was really nice for all of us to get to sit down and eat dinner together on kibbutz. The family reunion on kibbutz was not as exciting for me as I had been dealing with a cold and a bit of an ear infection. This was no problem with our amazing Israeli health insurance. I called and had a doctor make a house call at the kibbutz. He gave me some medicine to clear up the ear infection and I barely missed a beat!

Zeyde feeds Abby in the kibbutz dining hall.

Abby takes a break from eating to get kisses from Auntie V.

Then Abby played with Uncle Scott in the Lobby.

That night Abby had a sleepover with her Aunties and Uncle! Looks
like she had fun!
The next morning we drove to Binyamina and Zikhron Ya’akov for two winery tours. The first was at Binyamina Winery. To be honest, it was a bit underwhelming compared to many of the other wineries we’ve visited this year. However, our next stop at Carmel Winery was just the opposite. Aviva and I have enjoyed visiting wineries this year as a different way to get to know the Land of Israel and Israel’s history from a different perspective. We learned about Carmel Winery and its rich history and role in the building of the State of Israel. In short, Carmel Winery was one of the many ways that the wealthy European Baron Edmond de Rothchild supported the late 19th century zionists. Due to my brother in-law David’s work connections, we were wined and dined at the Carmel Winery. It was one of the best winery tours we’ve experienced in Israel. After touring a bit of Zikhron Ya’akov, we returned to Jerusalem that night.
On Tuesday morning we drove through the Jordan Valley toward the Dead Sea and Massada. Marti and Robin (eventually Robin, after she began and wussed out) headed up in the cable car. David, Aviva and I climbed up the snake path to this last Jewish holdout of the Roman-Jewish war in 73 CE.

Siblings atop Massada!
Once on top of the mountain fortress, we toured around to see how the Jewish community lived there during the Roman siege. I think David, who had ascended for the first time, really got a kick out of all the archeology up there. Exhausted from the climb (some of us!) and eager to get into the Dead Sea, we descended via the cable car.
After working out a complex spa treatment/babysitting schedule at the Daniel Dead Sea Hotel, we took a ride to the water for a float!

Abby goes for a float in the Dead Sea! (Well, really on her daddy’s belly!)
For the following four days we would stay in the Jerusalem area. On Wednesday we joined my parents’ tour to visit the Chagall Windows at Hadassah Hospital, Har Herzl National Cemetery, and Yad Vashem, Israel’s national memorial to the Shoah. Each of these were moving in their own way.

Those Israeli men will flirt with American women of any age. Abby befriended
a soldier who was at Har Herzl practicing for Israel’s Memorial Day and
Independence Day ceremonies.
On Thursday we spent the day in the Old City. We met Mom and Dad’s tour early in the morning at the Western Wall. Afterward, we walked below the Old City to check out the Western Wall tunnels, the recently excavated underground portion of the Western Wall. After our tour we took a bit of time to shop in the Old City. That evening, we walked around the Jerusalem Shuk and had a delicious dinner at HaShipudia in the Mahane Yehuda area.

“Women of the Wall!?”

Abby gets a blessing from her Mom and Bubbe at the Western Wall.

Dad and Scott on the men’s side of the Western Wall.

The girls in the Old City.
With no preparations needed for our Shabbat meals, we headed to visit another two wineries on Friday in the Jerusalem Hills. Our first visit was Castel Winery. In my opinion, Castel is at least tied for the finest winery in Israel. We again got the first class treatment due to David’s work connections. The story of Castel is the story of the Ben-Zaken family of Castel in the Judean Hills. After opening a popular Italian restaurant in Jerusalem, Eli Ben-Zaken thought he would take a stab at winemaking. His talent is all self-taught and he has passed this on to his children who, under his supervision, run the winery today.
After Castel, we stopped by Kibbutz Tzuba to see their ancient wine press and make a few purchases from their winery store. After this short stop we dropped by Agur Winery to taste from their selection and to meet Shuki, an Israeli (though he speaks English with a Scottish accent) vintner and all around hysterical guy.
After returning to Jerusalem, we prepared for what would be everyone’s last Shabbat together on this trip. We again visited the Western Wall for Shabbat services and then joined my parents’ tour for Shabbat dinner at the Inbal Hotel.

Abby dances with Uncle Scott.
On Shabbat morning I ditched my siblings and went to take my parents for a special treat. We visited the Museum of Islamic Art that houses an exhibit of some of the rarest clocks and watches in the world. Knowing that my father has a thing for clocks and watches, I thought it would be a nice addition to their trip. After the exhibit, I returned to our apartment along with my parents. Together, the whole family took a walk to the Old City to see some of the Christian Holy Sites.
When Shabbat was over, we made Havdalah together in our apartment. Our first use of our beautiful new Havdalah candle seemed like a separation from super-Holy to the sadly-profane. Here we were having spent Shabbat in Jerusalem together as a family. The next morning, my siblings would be leaving the country.
On Sunday morning we returned to Ben Gurion Airport to send off the siblings back to the US. Aviva and I returned to Jerusalem, switched to a smaller rental car and packed some bags to go unwind in Eilat for two days with my parents and Aunt Gayle and Uncle Joel. This was a very special way to end this whole adventure. On our first night in the hotel, Uncle Joel asked me to officiate at an impromptu renewal of vows ceremony as it was his and my Aunt Gayle’s anniversary. He literally asked me in the elevator as we headed down for cocktails before dinner! I asked him for a few minutes to think. Minutes later I ran upstairs to grab a tallit, wine and to jot down a few notes. I came down and scoped out a spot in a corner courtyard of the hotel. It was quite a joyous moment and I was honored to have had the opportunity to be a part of it!

Impromptu “renewal of vows” for Aunt Gayle and Uncle Joel’s anniversary
Being the nerds that we are, Aviva and I went the next morning to check out JNF’s bird sanctuary in Eilat. Then we spent the day hanging by the pool and the evening walking along Eilat’s incredibly sketchy boardwalk. All in all it was a fun and relaxing way to end a crazy two weeks.The next morning we said goodbye to my Mom, Dad, Aunt and Uncle.
It was such a blessing to have my family here. Aviva and I are so thankful that everyone took the time and money to have such a special experience together. Aviva and I were very proud to have the opportunity to share the place we love with people we love. We had the solace of a gorgeous drive up the middle of the country through the desert and toward Herzliya where Aviva would stop to attend classes before we headed home to Jerusalem.
Stuck in the middle

Scott holds the remains of a Kassam rocket that was fired on the
town of Sderot by terrorists in the Gaza Strip. More on our visit to
Sderot later in this post.
For the first time, I am writing a post with fewer days until our estimated date of departure than days since we arrived in Israel. This is a terribly difficult realization. Over the past six and a half months the Jewish State has felt more and more like home. With each day Aviva and I grow more accustomed to life here. We feel more and more deeply connected to the emotional roller coaster that is life in this country. We begin to envision what it will be like to leave behind those with whom we’ve grown close this year who will not be joining us in exile next year. Our convictions with regard to the importance of this Zionist project run deeper and deeper. Last, but definitely not least, who is going to look after the cat that lives in our courtyard and who is going to drop by weekly to wind Savta Rachely’s clock!?
On the other hand, it is just as difficult to fathom that we have not seen our families in over 200 days. We have missed out on the first year of our niece and nephew’s lives, time with our adopted niece and nephew, family gatherings etc. By the time we get back we will have missed the weddings of five couples very dear to us. We have not been able to be present for dear friends when we normally would have dropped everything to go. We do not take this lightly and as time passes, we miss our families more and more.
More and more I think of the poem אילנות/ilanot by the famous Israeli poet, Leah Goldberg. She writes:
אולי רק ציפורי מסע יודעות
כשהן תלויות בין ארץ ושמים
את זה הכאב של שתי המולדות.
Perhaps only migrating birds know,
For they hang between earth and sky,
The precise pain of two homelands.
Goldberg was born in Lithuania and made aliyah in 1935 at age 24. In the rest of this poem she fondly recalls the winters of her childhood. The poem ends with the line, “ושורשי בשני נופים שונים”, “and my roots are in two different landscapes.” We continue to live this struggle daily.
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It seems that winter has finally come to Jerusalem. Technically speaking, we are still experiencing a drought. Traditional communities are still inserting prayers for rain in their daily prayers. However, the cold and the rain make that seem rather unnecessary. For a bit of time during the US academic winter break, the roads were filled with tour busses and the tourist sites were bursting with Birthright Israel participants. For the most part we avoided these crowds at all costs, but when we heard that our alma mater, Rutgers University, was bringing 40 students on Birthright, we braved a very crowded Mahane Yehuda market on a Friday afternoon to see them. We had a fantastic lunch with our former Rutgers Hillel Director, Andrew Getraer, and Associate Director (and also the mesaderet kiddushin/officiant of our wedding), Rabbi Esther Reed. We also met up with Andrew, Esther and the group after shabbat on Ben Yehuda Street for some shopping and waffle-eating at Babettes.
After the Rutgers students headed back to begin their spring semester, we were fortunate enough to have Andrew as our guest for a few days. I was on my winter break and able to join Andrew for a couple adventures that week. For Andrew’s first evening with us, I invited him to help me use a coupon I had for an all-you-can-eat Brazilian-style steak house. He graciously accepted. As if plate after plate of roasted meat was not already the highlight of the evening, Andrew got word of and an invitation for us to a farbrengen (a term used by Chabad-Lubavitch Hasidim for a joyous gathering including Torah study, food and liquor). The event was being hosted at the Tekoa Hesder Yeshiva which is under the leadership of HaRav Adin Even Israel Steinsaltz. The farbrengen was in honor of the upcoming Hebrew date yud shevat (the 10th day of the Hebrew month of Shevat). In Chabad Lubavitch circles, this date commemorates not only the yahrzeit (anniversary of someone’s passing) of Rabbi Yosef Yitzhak Shneerson, known as the “Previous” rebbe, but the taking of the reigns by Rabbi Menachem Mendel Shneerson, the seventh and last Rebbe of the Chabad Lubavitch Hasidim.
Rabbi Steinsaltz spoke about three great rabbis using the model of the biblical Elijah and his successor, Elisha. He expounded upon the lives of Rabbi Nahman of Bretslov, Rabbi Yehuda Leib Alter and Rabbi Menahem Mendel Shneerson. Speaking in Hebrew, VERY softly, and from behind an impressive beard, it was difficult for me to catch every word. Just the feeling in the room was magnificent. The Tekoa Yeshiva students were very impressive. Former students of the yeshiva were being skyped in from all over the world to hear their rebbe speak. Among them, was Rabbi Shmuel Green, a teacher and friend of mine from our days at Rutgers Hillel. Shortly after 1 am, our ride was getting tired and decided to leave. Rabbi Steinsaltz had not yet finished speaking. Andrew and I arrived home around 2 am. I had a blast with Andrew that week (including a little stroll he and I took around the Muslim Quarter of the old city, getting very lost!), Aviva and I were sad to see him leave.
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While on my winter break, I also had the opportunity to go with Aviva, as part of her work, to test out a new tour guide for when she takes students to Sderot. Sderot is a city in the Northwestern Negev just 2 kilometers from the Gaza border. Very sadly, it is most famous for the more than 1,000 of Kassam rockets that have been launched from Gaza to within the borders of this small town. Our tour began at the Sderot police station where we saw a portion of the Kassams that have landed in the town. We learned about how they are made from simple materials that are easily acquired, how they are packed with shrapnel in order to afflict the most damage possible, and how although tens of rockets a day are not falling as they were a couple of years ago, they haven’t stopped falling completely.
A portion of the Kassam rockets that have fallen on the town of Sderot.
After leaving the police station, we rode around town looking at some of the bomb shelters that have been built in Sderot to protect its citizens. Bomb shelters at bus stops, on playgrounds, over schools and in each and every home. The Israeli government has paid roughly 80,000 nis (about $22,000) per shelter and more for many of the larger public shelters in schools and playgrounds. As we talked about that day, this is difficult money to spend. On one hand, the government has a responsibility to protect its citizens. On the other, one could argue that money would be better spent fighting those launching the bombs in the first place rather than sending the message that their behavior is acceptable and asking families in Sderot to just hunker down in their shiny new bomb shelters. 
This school in Sderot has had its roof reinforced
to protect students from falling rockets.
A trailer outside a school in Sderot that used to be used as overflow
classroom space. Now it sits empty and filled with holes from Kassam
shapnel.
One of Sderot’s newer schools. Built more like a fortress than a school.
After touring the neighborhood we went on a little walk to see precisely how close Sderot is to the Gaza Strip. At the first, our backs were facing a row of homes at the edge of the town over looking a nearby highway. This was our view:
You can see the road we were overlooking at the bottom of this picture. In background you can see Gaza city and get an idea of just how close the two places are to one another.
Here is the view from the other overlook:
All in all, Sderot’s story is a sad one. Between folks who feel stuck in the town, unable to sell their homes and its residents just beginning to see and feel the psychological aftermath of living under such intense circumstances, Sderot is sure to to be a part of the discourse on the Arab-Israeli conflict for some time to come.
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For happier news, Aviva and I finally made our way to the newly renovated Israel Museum! We had been to the museum together in 2004 just as renovations were getting underway. I remember being very sad not to be able to visit the famous Shrine of the Book due to the renovations. We were on the grounds of the museum for a wine festival over the summer, but were too distracted by the free flowing wine to make it into the museum. The museum is gorgeous. As I expected, I was completely enraptured by the Shrine of the Book. The exhibit highlights the 2000 year old scrolls left behind by a community of Jews living near the Northwest corner of the Dead Sea. The story of this community and the finding and acquisition of its artifacts from 1947-1956 is one of the most fascinating finds of the 20th century. The Shrine of the Book also currently houses the Aleppo Codex, a thousand year old manuscript of the Hebrew Bible used as the base for many of the printed Hebrew Bibles we know of today.
The rest of museum is also very impressive. Another oft-raved about section of the museum is the Synagogue Route. Several synagogues from all of the world have been dismantled and reassembled inside the Israel Museum. Visiting this section takes one on a tour of world Jewry and the different ways Jewish identity has been expressed worldwide through the creation of holy space.
In order to get to the Israel museum from our apartment, we must walk through and up out of Emek Hamatslayvah, or the Valley of the Cross. We have become very familiar with this valley over the past months as we live just at its base. In order to go anywhere, we have to walk up and out of the Valley. In addition to being home to the Israeli parliament, museums, and a park, there is also a Greek (originally Georgian) monastery known as the Monastery of the Cross. Over the summer we walked past this Monastery almost daily, but never entered as they do not allow people to enter in shorts. On our way home from the Israel Museum, we finally entered.
As it turns out, the Monastery of the Cross is believed to be the site upon which grew the three saplings from which grew the wood that would make Jesus’ crucifix. There is an exegetical piece that describes Abraham giving these three saplings to Lot to care for them as penance for him engaging in incest (after the events that took place in Genesis 19:30-38). The story goes that Satan did everything he could to keep Lot from watering the young trees, but good persevered over evil. The monastery was quite gorgeous. Nothing is labeled and one can just walk around poking their nose everywhere and anywhere. Many of the dining and living quarters are no longer used, but the worship areas and gift shop looked to be open and thriving. Aviva and I were happy to finally know the story of the valley we must hike out of each day.
The altar at the Monastery of the Cross.
Scott playing in the monks kitchen. Pizza anyone?
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On January 20th we celebrated Tu bishvat (the 15th day of the Hebrew month of Shvat). In the Mishnah, this date was decided upon as one of the four New Year’s celebrations. This New Year’s celebration is the one by which Jews calculate the timeline of agricultural laws in Israel. In modern times, the holiday has also become a sort of Jewish Arbor Day and a time when people concentrate on environmental concerns. I spent the morning cleaning out the garden in front of our apartment of all of the clovers that took over during the winter. In the afternoon, Aviva and I visited the Jerusalem Bird Observatory. There were children there planting trees in honor of the holiday. We walked around looking for birds and for any signs of spring we could find. This time of year gardens and wildflowers are blooming throughout the country. It is absolutely gorgeous.
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A few days later we had a visit from our dear friend, Andrew Summey. Andrew used to work with Aviva. We have kept in touch with him and his family since they left Massachusetts and headed for Texas a few years ago. Andrew was visiting and doing some consulting work for a company called Zion Oil and Gas. Zion Oil and Gas is in the process of drilling deeper than any company ever has to try to find oil in Israel. They are spending a million dollars a day with a goal of bringing Israel toward energy independence. They are a Christian company that relies on biblical sources as proof that there is, in fact, oil to be found in the Land of Israel. It is quite an interesting endeavor!
Andrew, Aviva and Scott in their Zion Oil Gear!
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My friend and hevruta (study partner) directed a play at a local community theater. She asked for my help taking portraits of the actors and various stage shots for playbills and newspaper ads about the play. I also helped create two slide shows used in the play. In high school I helped out with a couple of plays on the tech. crew and in the pit orchestra. This was a new aspect of production that allowed me to practice my photography skills. It also got Aviva and me two free tickets to the show. Rumor has it that I might be asked to take portraits for the theater’s upcoming production of Grease. 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We finished out January by spending shabbat in Alon Shvut at the home of my Talmud teacher and his family. Rabbi Zvi Hirschfield had my complete respect and admiration before spending shabbat in his home, and even more so after. We had a completely simple and relaxing shabbat with abundant and tasty food, pleasant services at the local synagogue, and lots of time for naps. Zvi’s family is really a pleasure. (Aviva and I helped to introduce his wife, Dena, to birding on a trip to Kibbutz Tzora in the fall.) Building a relationship with and learning from Rabbi Hirschfield has been one of the highlights of the past six months and a connection from whom I hope to continue to grow and learn.
From Wikipedia: Alon Shvut means "oak of return", and is a reference to
the return of those Jews expelled from Gush Etzion by the Jordanian Arab
Legion in 1948 following the Kfar Etzion massacre. After the destruction of
the Etzion Bloc of communities, the survivors and their children would
gather yearly on the Israeli–Jordanian frontier to glimpse the sole remaining
tree, an oak, which became known as the 'lone oak.' The town was
constructed adjacent to the 'lone oak,' and the tree maintains a central
place in the identity of both Alon Shvut and Gush Etzion at large as a
symbol of renewal and continuity. The 'lone oak' is incorporated in the
emblem of the Gush Etzion Regional Council.
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The following weekend we went on a little getaway as a belated birthday present to Aviva. Over the past several years, the concept of a tzimmer (lit. guest room) has taken off in Israel. They are very similar to American bed and breakfasts. A friend recommended Maof Hatzippor (the flight of the bird), a tzimmer located on a moshav (village/settlement) called Netiv HaShayarah. The owners, Ruti and Yehudah, have built three guest houses in their beautiful back yard. In front of the guest houses were exquisite gardens, an outdoor kitchen, hammocks etc. The three houses are named khokhit (finch), saknai (pelican), and dukhifat (hoopoe). We stayed in saknai. The guest houses back up to beautiful fields beyond which is the city of Haifa. The fields are home to many species of birds that gave us much enjoyment the entire weekend. Ruti and Yehuda were the most gracious of hosts. They delivered breakfast to our room in the morning, brought us an urn and a hot plate to keep our food warm on shabbat, and consistently impressed us with surprise snacks, wine, cake etc. 
We arrived late Thursday evening and enjoyed the grounds and our room until bedtime. 
Aviva enjoys the wine, cake and fresh flowers that Ruti and Yehuda
had in our room when we arrived.
When we woke up Friday morning it was raining. We decided to be adventurous anyway. We drove just a bit south to Akko. Neither of us had ever been to Akko before. The Old City is gorgeous and tells the tale of the many peoples that have inhabited the city in the past. Our first stop was to an 18th century Turkish bathhouse, now a museum. Aside from the completely racist (albeit hysterical) video they show there, it was really fascinating to walk through the site. 
After the bathhouse, we walked through the local market on the way to our next destination. We stopped and took a look at all of the gorgeous produce up for sale. One stand had some particularly delicious looking fish for sale. We were enjoying looking at all of the varieties until we got to the end of the table and noticed several sharks sitting atop a stack of buckets. At first we watched for a bit as two local guys were inspecting the dead sharks and laughing that the stand’s owner had shoved an orange into the shark’s mouth. Apparently this was not funny enough for them. One of the men took a cigarette out of his pocket and pressed it onto the sharks tooth. The other passersby thought it was quite amusing.
After the market we walked through the Templar’s Tunnel, part of a 12th century Templar’s fortress that was discovered in Akko in 1994. 
Given the rain, we glanced at some of Akko’s other historical sites just before we got wet and cranky enough that we needed to go back to the tzimmer. Before we left we grabbed a cup of hot sakhlab and enjoyed it on our way back to the car.
We had a very relaxing shabbat in the tzimmer. We slept late, watched the birds, read etc.
When we left the tzimmer on Sunday, we drove by way of Zichron Ya’akov, one of the earliest Zionist settlements in the Israel that neither of us had visited before. (I won’t bother sharing the unique history of the town here, but click the link and read...it’s worth it.)

After driving around and catching some of the monuments etc. around the city, we walked up and down the pedestrian walkway in the center of town to find a place for lunch. I wasn’t feeling so well, so we did not partake in the variety of opportunities for wine tasting in the area. (A reason to go back!?) But we did have a lovely lunch before heading back to Jerusalem.
Sadly, all things must come to an end. We arrived back in Jerusalem, returned our rental car and got back to our books. More news to come soon!
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A note from Aviva:
The last six weeks have been very busy for me. I finished all of my first semester exams and I did well enough over all that I decided not to take any Moed Bet exams. (Side note: In Israel, every student gets two chances to take their final exams. If a student fails their first final, or doesn't take the final that student is automatically registered for Moed Bet. In addition, if a student is not satisfied with her grade she can choose to take the exam again. When I found out about this system my instinct was to do well enough on my first round of exams to not take any again. I didn't give myself the opportunity to fail so I didn't have to worry about studying a second time for the same exam.
Also, in Israel multiple choice exams are called 'American tests' maybe because of the SATs?).
I still have two more papers to write from last semester. They are not due until Pesach but I am going to try to get them done in the next few weeks. In the meantime, my second semester has started and I am looking forward to most of my classes. I am especially excited about the research seminar on the Arab-Israeli conflict and the workshop in Track-two diplomacy and peace-building. The second semester seems much more serious than the first and I am sure there will be more work as well. I welcome it.
There have also been some changes at work which will mean me taking on some more hours. I am excited about these new challenges and I will have to manage my time more closely this semester (including making sure I have time to write blog entries - clearly I have been slacking).
Busy winter.

Chanukah Candles Burning in the window of Beit Kadima.
It is winter in Jerusalem. In your average year this means a long awaited rainy season and windy raw weather all around. Well, not so much this winter. Israel is experiencing an abnormally warm and dry winter. There have only been one or two serious rains and the country is in desperate need of the water. Additionally, Israel is dealing with the worst butter shortage it has ever experienced. This is partially due to the fact that cows produce less butter fat when the weather is warmer. It is nearly impossible to find a stick of the good stuff in the entire country! While the Northeastern United States is under two feet of snow this week, we are enjoying perfect and sunny 70 degree days.
The biggest storm thus far this season happened two weeks ago. For the first days of it Aviva and I were in Tel Aviv for Shabbat with my classmates. The program coordinator for the Rabbinical School at Hebrew College organized a really lovely time away. We left Jerusalem on the Thursday after Aviva and I returned from Egypt. Our first stop took us on a tour of Bet Hatefutsot: The Museum of the Jewish People aka The Diaspora Museum. This museum was built in 1978 and became outdated minutes later. The exhibits attempt to tell the story of the Jewish People. In the museum’s current state there are many faults aside from it’s seemingly bizarre mission. The exhibits do not show the full spectrum of diaspora life. They lack the voices of Middle Eastern Jewry, the Jewish Feminist movement etc. Visitors to the museum are fed the idea that the diaspora ends with the establishment of the State of Israel in 1948. While the Zionist in me appreciates the sentiment, it isn’t at all the case. The museum is not at all interactive and in pretty poor condition overall.
So why would my teacher drag us there? As it turns out, the Diaspora Museum has a plan to redesign beginning in about two years. The educators there have turned the current museum into an educational tool. Through discussing the current state of the museum and its future potential, some big questions begin to surface. For example, How do we connect our students and ourselves to our rich history and at the same time allow them to see themselves as part of the Jewish future? And, what is the status of Jewish Peoplehood and connection to the land and State of Israel today? At the end of our tour, we had the opportunity to share our suggestions for the museum’s renovation given the questions that had come up during out tour.
After our tour it was time to go get settled into our hotel. Now, our program director only has a limited budget of trips and things this year. Thankfully, we were able to rely upon some old-fashioned Israeli disorganization to help us out on this trip. The hotel chain with which our rooms were booked ended up upgrading us twice to their higher-end hotels due to overbooking. In the end we stayed at the chain’s posh new Art+ Hotel. Each floor of the hotel has a different artistic motif. Before heading out to dinner I enjoyed the artwork and a selection from the complimentary happy hour with my classmates!
The next morning we walked over to Kehilat Sinai, a synagogue affiliated with the Masorti Movement in Israel. Our class enjoyed praying together (something we do not get to do so often in Israel) along with Rabbi Roberto Arbib. Rabbi Arbib welcomed us to his synagogue and told us about some of the exciting work he does there. In addition to being the spiritual leader of the community, he is also the director of Midreshet Iyun, a successful study program based at the synagogue. After services, we walked through some of Tel Aviv’s markets, along the beach and to the town of Yafo/Jaffa for our afternoon activity.
Our group met two men, Ori Rotlevy and Sami Abu-Shadeh, in Yafo. Ori and Sami have been giving tours of Yafo for nearly ten years. However, their approach is somewhat unorthodox. Their tour stops in three places in Yafo and both Ori and Sami give separate presentations. Ori tells the story of Yafo from a Jewish/Zionist perspective and Sami presents the Palestinian/Arab perspective of the same place. Some disorganization and a sudden downpour got in the way of our getting the full effect of the tour. Ori and Sami have a bit of work to do in terms of their overall presentation and processing at the end of their tours. However, this type of tour is quite valuable in terms of teaching the multiplicity of narratives that one can find in dealing with the Arab-Israeli Conflict.
Finally came Shabbat. My class joined the folks at Beit Tefilah Yisraeli for Shabbat services. Beit Tefilah Yisraeli is a spiritual community geared toward Israelis who are looking to reclaim Jewish ritual from the Orthodox who hold the monopoly over such things in Israel. They gather together to pray and incorporate Israeli songs and poetry into the traditional rubric. In practice this is very similar to many NFTY shabbat services I have attended. But the folks at Beit Tefilah do so with maturity and the intention of creating real community. I was fortunate enough to get my hands on one of their siddurim (prayer books) that they use on Friday evenings. I look forward to using this rich collection in the future.
On Shabbat morning we walked to a fairly new community called Yachad. Yachad is a breakaway from Yakar Tel Aviv (We have mentioned going to Yakar Jerusalem in previous posts). They made their split after the Yakar in Jerusalem gave them a difficult time about celebrating the marriage of a same-sex couple. The final product at Yachad is a community that is very traditional and very liberal at the same time. I loved this. Men and women sat together, but when Aviva asked one of the women if there would be a problem with her wearing a tallit (prayer shawl traditionally worn by men), the woman said, “people do whatever they want here.” After services we had the fortunate experience to hear from Israeli Parliament Member Nitzan Horowitz. MK (Member of Knesset) Horowitz is a member of Israel’s left-wing Meretz Party. Unbeknownst to us he had been scheduled to pay this community a visit. We stuck around to hear what he had to say. He spoke about what it meant for Israel to be both democratic and Jewish. As a “secular” Jew, he shared his relationship to Shabbat, that he is the only secular Jew that sits on the Knesset’s education committee, that he joins members of knesset on Friday mornings for breakfast and weekly Torah study etc. He used all of these as examples of a values-based Judaism that he lives and thinks that Israel has to share with the world. As a left-wing member of knesset and its only openly gay member, MK Horowitz was very well received by this Orthodox crowd.
One of the other great experiences we had in Tel Aviv was having our Shabbat meals hosted by a pre-army preperatory program in Tel Aviv. These programs (called mekhinot) are elective programs for young adults who wish to take a year before entering the army to learn and do community service. Some of these programs are religious and some secular. In Tel Aviv, this program gathers together a mixture of religious and secular. Together, the participants try to understand each other and create community together. They learn about Zionism and try to understand their connection to their home more deeply. They tackle community service projects together. All of this is part of the goal of being better citizens, soldiers and human beings. It was a pleasure getting to know some of the program’s participants and seeing where and how they live, study and work together.
All in all it was a lovely Shabbat in Tel-Aviv. Aviva and I were surprised by how many serious Jewish communities we came across there. Our assumptions of Tel-Aviv as lacking the Jewish opportunities we enjoy in Jerusalem were challenged. I wouldn’t think twice about heading to Tel-Aviv for another Shabbat soon.
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This year I am walking the line between two institutions that are in many ways quite like-minded and in others completely different. I am studying here in Israel as part of the Rabbinical School of Hebrew College but learning Talmud and Halakha (Jewish Law) at the Pardes Institute of Jewish Studies. RSHC is a pluralistic and unaffiliated rabbinical seminary. Pardes is an Orthodox but non-coercive yeshiva.There have recently been heated debates between Rabbi Arthur Green, the rector of the Rabbinical School at Hebrew College, and Rabbi Daniel Landes, the Rosh Yeshiva of Pardes.
Almost a year ago, Rabbi Green released a book entitled, “Radical Judaism: rethinking God and Tradition.” At the time I was taking a class with Rabbi Green at Hebrew College. For this class we were asked to read and respond to sections of Rabbi Green’s book. In my paper, I rejected Rabbi Green’s universalist views of Torah for my own particularistic, but pluralistic ones. My classmates and I enjoyed this assignment and the opportunity to be challenged and to challenge our teacher.
This past fall, Rabbi Daniel Landes of Pardes released this review of Rabbi Green’s new book in the Jewish Review of Books. In his review, Rav Landes comes out quite strongly against Rabbi Green, his theology and his community. Rav Landes challenges Rabbi Green’s rejection of a personal God, of the Torah as the literal word of God and his broad definition of the community of Israel. Folks in the Green camp were outraged. Not necessarily because of the content of the critique itself, but due to some of the low blows that Rav Landes made in his review.
You can read Rabbi Green’s yet unpublished response here.
Shortly after writing the above response, Rabbi green came to Israel and gave a talk at the Shalom Hartman Institute, where I am also taking a class this year. He spoke to a packed house and was on his game. While I don’t always see eye to eye with my teacher, I thought he spoke seriously, carefully and respectfully. His talk was a reminder to fellow seekers to be honest with themselves. He mentioned that if one is going to disagree with him, they better have a good reason why. You can listen to an audio recording of the talk here.
I saw this as an opportunity. Shortly after the review came out, I asked Rav Landes for a meeting. He was kind enough to invite the Hebrew College students studying in Israel this year to his home for dessert and a bit of learning. A small group of us immediately accepted. Rav Landes taught us a poem by Rav Kook entitled, “merkhavim, merkhavim.” He spoke about his path and what he feels he has to contribute to future generations of learners. We did not talk much about the specifics of Rabbi Green’s book or of their disagreement. I think Rav Landes’ intention was to show our class what a serious spiritual seeker looks like in the Orthodox world, to give us an image to contrast with our teacher Rabbi Green who has made most of his career in the non-Orthodox world. Rav Landes succeeded in doing this and in impressing myself and some of my classmates.
At the end of it all, I am honored to know Rabbi Green and Rabbi Landes and to be a part of both of their communities. Being so affords me the opportunity to experience the best of what each has to offer and to reflect on that in terms of my own beliefs and practices.
For more reading on their debate, I also recommend Shaul Magid’s review of several reviews of “Radical Judaism” that appeared on zeek.forward.com.
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Christmas Eve Day in Bethlehem. Waiting on the parade route
with friends Eliana, Lev, Hal and Jena.
We couldn’t be in Israel on Christmas without checking out Bethlehem. Bethlehem is found beyond the 1949 Armistice Line, so on Friday, December 24th we woke up early and took a bus to the checkpoint. Crossing into Bethlehem is fairly easy. We showed our passports and were on our way. As Americans we can do this. Israelis are not allowed to enter Bethlehem unless they are sent there by the military. We passed through the checkpoint and to the other side of the wall built by Israel to keep suicide bombers from entering Jerusalem and blowing up city buses and restaurants. Once on the other side, we only saw Israeli military at the border. From there on out we watched as the unarmed Palestinian police forces kept order. This sounds a little scary, be we felt no threat of violence at all throughout our entire trip. The only moment where we felt unsafe was in a cab with a driver that was taking Bethlehem’s steep hills a bit too fast for our liking.
There was no shortage of taxi drivers wanting to take us to Manger Square where all of the action was going on. In fact, a few of them got into a fight over who had won the right to take us to our destination. Being one of the busiest days of the year, many roads were blocked off and the taxi driver had to take us up and down many of Bethlehem’s steep hills to get to the center of town. Even then, we had to walk a bit as the driver couldn’t drop us off so close to town. While taking a shortcut through a shopping mall, we saw the wallhanging pictured below. Just what everyone wants for the holidays!

I have fond memories of being the age of the boy above and my mother putting plastic machine guns in my hand to take holiday pictures to send to Grandma!

We finally arrived at Manger Square. We stood for a while and watched the parades and celebrations going on in the streets. Groups of boy scouts and girl scouts marched by with marching bands representing various churches and organizations.

Coffee anyone?
After watching a bit of the parade we made our way down one of the local streets to scout out the local shopping. Aviva and I thought it would be special to buy some locally made gifts for our Christian friends in the states. We came across a studio where a craftsmen was making sculptures and other gifts out of locally grown olive wood. We were very impressed with his work and happy to see that the products we were purchasing weren’t made in china. So we picked up some authentic Bethlehem olive wood Christmas ornaments to send back to the states!


The owner of the Christmas House. Jack Giacaman. His family can trace its roots
in Bethlehem back over 400 years.
After our shopping we decided it was time to check out some of the local churches. Just a few doors down from the shop pictured above is the Milk Grotto Church. The Milk Grotto is said to be the place where Mary took refuge after giving birth to Jesus. The story goes that as she was nursing him a drop of milk spilled on the ground. This spot has become a place of prayer, especially for fertility.

Christian worshipers at the Milk Grotto.
We grabbed a bite to eat and then headed to the Church of the Nativity. The Church of the Nativity is said to be the place of Jesus’ birth. As you can imagine, it was packed when we were there. So much so that we did not have the opportunity to descend below the church to see the actual spot where Jesus is said to have been born. The lines were out the door and Shabbat was coming quickly. We did have the opportunity to take in one of the oldest working churches in the world. Among many more interesting things, the Church was used as a hideout by Palestinian terrorists in 2002 who were under siege by the Israeli Army.

By the time we left the church, Manger Square was mobbed with people. It was nearly impossible to move. We decided that it was a good time to head back to the checkpoint. After hailing a cab, showing our passports again and going through some pretty sensitive metal detectors, we were back on the Jerusalem side of the wall. The proximity of Bethlehem to Jerusalem is pretty amazing. In the picture below you can not only see a bit of propaganda from the Palestinian Authorities (one of a few we spotted throughout the day), but also a sign mentioning that Jerusalem is less than 9 km from the center of Bethlehem.

That night we were invited to the home of Dr. Avivah Zornberg for a lovely Shabbat dinner. I had the privilege of learning with Dr. Zornberg this past semester. After dinner we walked to the old city of Jerusalem to see if there was any other Christmas Cheer being spread. What we found was a lot of Jews walking around in search of Christmas Cheer. So we called it a night and headed back home.
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I’ll wrap up this ridiculously long and disconnected post with some photos of some of the visitors we’ve had over the last few weeks. It is winter break in the states, so we’ve had the opportunity to get together with some great friends who have passed through town:

Lunch at Burgers Bar on Emek Refaim with our friend Liz from Rutgers. Liz was
also kind enough to make a delivery to us from her coworker, my sister, Robin.
We sent some things back for the family with Liz as well. Last we heard her bags
were somewhere in Barcelona. We hope they get to her in New York soon!

Our friend Navah spent a night with us as well. It was great to get caught up with
her. She was one of Aviva’s bridesmaids in our wedding. It had been way too long
since we’d spent time together.

We had two opportunities to get together with Andrew Getraer and Rabbi Esther
Reed while they staffed a birthright Israel trip for Rutgers Hillel. Andrew and Esther
were our Hillel directors at Rutgers. You might also recognize Rabbi Reed from
under the chuppah (canopy) at our wedding!

Last, but definitely not least, we had a visit from our dear friends Stacy and Matt
Seltzer. We were able to continue our tradition of having spent the past four New
Year’s Eves with Stacy and Matt.
Because the third camel was a liar!

Aviva and Scott in front of the Great Pyramid at Giza during their
recent Egypt adventure.
A few weeks back, our friends Erin and Ethan invited us to join them for some backpacking-esque travel over our Chanukah break. The idea of this sort of thing has intrigued Aviva and me for some time, but going ahead and planning a trip as first-timers was a bit intimidating. Erin and Ethan took us under their wing and gently introduced us to the process. As a group we decided on Egypt as our destination and the planning began. Preparing for the trip was pretty easy. Aviva made a few trips to the Egyptian Consulate in Tel Aviv to acquire visas. (An adventure in and of itself!) I made some phone calls and signed us up for travelers health insurance. We borrowed large backpacks and some other backpacking equipment from friends, purchased the Lonely Planet’s Egypt Travel Guide and with an array of travel snacks we were ready to roll!
We met Erin and Ethan at Tel Aviv’s Central Bus Station to board a midnight bus that would bring us to Eilat 4.5 hours later. When we arrived in Tel Aviv, we noticed that Erin and Ethan had managed to pack in one backpack (against our two) and they were planning on staying two days longer than we would stay! Our green horns were definitely showing! Upon our arrival to the Eilat Central Bus Station, we hopped in a cab that took us to the Taba border crossing. We walked across the border on foot. All in all, it went smoothly. The officials on both sides of the border were helpful in getting us on our way.
Once in Egypt proper, we were quickly approached by drivers wanting to take us to our first destination. Erin, our fearless leader, bargained our driver down to an acceptable price and we boarded a minibus to Dahab. After we selected our driver, one of the other drivers made fun of him by telling us that he didn’t really have a car, only a camel. After getting in the minibus, the driver took us only a few feet before stopping at a small government office. When in the sinai desert, the government requires that each driver register their passengers by name and passport number. This way, the government can keep tabs on who is going where within the country. At first this seemed a little scary, but shortly after we realized it was for our protection. As we passed from protectorate to protectorate, we were stopped at checkpoints and asked to show our passports again and again. This was the Egyptian government making sure that the same four people that got in the car in Taba would still be in the car upon arriving in Dahab. At one of the checkpoints, an officer who noticed that we were New Jersey residents asked us if we were familiar with Woodbridge, New Jersey, where he had lived for three years. This was the first of a couple of “small world” moments on our trip. Later, in the Cairo bus station, we would run into an Egyptian naval officer who dated a girl from Sussex, New Jersey and whose brother took Middle East Studies classes with Aviva at Rutgers.
After another couple hours on the road, we arrived in Dahab. Dahab is a beautiful resort town on the Gulf of Aqaba. You can stand on the boardwalk and see across the water to Saudi Arabia! The coast is lined with restaurants and budget hotels some of which are in much more acceptable condition than others. We checked out a few hotels and quickly realized that we needed to feed ourselves before making this decision. We settled on a restaurant called “Penguin” and sat down for an Egyptian breakfast.

The view of the Gulf of Aqaba from the balcony at the Penguin restaurant.

The boardwalk in Dahab. It looks deserted as most people were still
sleeping off the night before when we arrived early in the morning.
Satiated, we took a room at the Penguin Hotel associated with the restaurant. For 13 USD a night, the price couldn’t be beat! We were living the good life in Dahab. After a short nap, it was time for lunch. In our pre-lunch wanderings, we came across a man offering sunset horseback rides. We couldn’t pass up the opportunity.

Aviva rides off into the Dahab sunset.

Scott gets to know his horse, Carmella.
The rest of our time in Dahab was fairly uneventful. We dismounted our horses and retired to the upper deck of the Penguin Restaurant. Did I say uneventful? I may have lied a bit. There was that one moment when the guy sitting on the edge of Penguin’s upper deck leaned back too far and almost ended up on the table of a family eating dinner on the lower level. Thank God, he caught himself and was quickly assisted back onto solid ground.
After dinner that evening, we retired to our hotel room to light the hannukiyah for the first night of Hanukah. As you can imagine, Egypt isn’t the biggest fan of we Jews. Unfortunately, we were not able to publicize the miracle of Hanukah as is traditional. Rather, we quietly sang the blessings in our hotel room with the door and windows closed. I am glad to say that we were able to do this safely for each night of our trip.

We quietly enjoyed the candlelight in our hotel room each night. How do
you like our egyptian lighter!?
The next morning we negotiated our way onto another minibus and headed to St. Katreen. The driver brought us straight to Fox Camp, a well known bedouin-style camp. We were greeted by the Fox himself and let Erin negotiate our room down to 8 USD per couple. We dropped our bags in our room and returned to our minibus driver who dropped us off around the corner at St. Katherine’s Monastery.
The monastery was gorgeous. As the oldest working Christian monastery in the world, St. Katherine’s had quite a few impressive artifacts to inspect. There are no photos allowed inside the sanctuary of the monastery, but I have never been so good at following rules:

A shot snapped from the hip as I walked out of the sanctuary at St.
Katherine’s monastery. They were quite serious about people not taking
photos!
One of the monastery’s many claims to fame is that it contains within its walls a shrub that it identifies as the burning bush from which God spoke to Moses (Exodus 3). Our tour book said that the plant is actually a descendant of what they think is the real burning bush. Either way, there were plenty of folks lined up to see it. It was humorous to hear how visitors reacted toward the bush. I overheard several discussions about whether or not folks thought that it was, in fact, the real thing. One such gentleman mocked his wife as she asked this question noting, “Sure it’s real. Didn’t you see the fire extinguisher?” (The monks had placed a large fire extinguisher beneath the bush that you can see in the picture below)

The burning bush at St. Katherine’s Monastery. If you were there and
it spontaneously combusted, would you try to put out the fire?

Aviva, Scott and the burning bush!
After the monastery, we returned to Fox Camp for lunch and some rest. Little did we know how much rest we should have given ourselves in order to have the strength to climb Jabl Mousa later that day. Jabl Mousa, or Moses’ Mountain is what the locals call the mountain believed to be Mt. Sinai, the place where the biblical Moses received the law from God (Exodus 19-20). The kind folks at Fox Camp arranged for Faraj, a very kind seventeen-ish year-old local Bedouin, to be our guide. Now, I know that I have been singing the praises of our Lonely Planet guidebook, but here it failed us. The guidebook describes the climb to the top of Mt. Sinai as being an easy 2-hour hike. In truth, it is a challenging 3-hour hike. With Faraj’s guidance and the patience of our friends, we hauled ourselves up all 7,500 ft of that mountain to look down on the setting sun.

Atop Mt. Sinai

(From L to R) Scott, Aviva, Erin, Ethan, Marcos, Scott and Faraj
After the requisite pictures, we used the last bit of dusk to climb down the stairs of repentance (3,000 or so hand-made steps from St. Katherine’s monastery to the top of the mountain. Created by a monk as penance for God only knows what. We walked up about 1,000 of them). Before the remainder of our descent, we stopped in a Bedouin tent for some delicious and well-deserved coffee. Shortly after, we hiked back down the mountain under a starlit sky like none I had ever seen before.
When we arrived at the bottom of the mountain, we were not immediately welcomed with the warm clothes and hearty dinner that we had expected. We were stopped by the Egyptian police who were not angry with us, but with our guide for trying to take us up the mountain a back way and sneak us back down without having to go through the police. We paid our guide, no doubt so that he could pay off the cops who were just angry that they almost missed out on their share.
Our crew finally returned to Fox Camp where we ate dinner and sat around the campfire until bedtime. While around the fire, we were entertained by Hemdi, an employee there, who poured us tea and told us corny jokes and riddles. One such riddle had to do three camels. Here it is:
There are three camels in a line. Let’s number them from left to right as Camel 1,2 and 3:



The first camel says that there are two camels in front of me and none behind me.
The second camel says that there is one camel in front of me and one behind me.
The third camel says that there are two camels in front of me and two camels behind me.
How is this possible? You got it....Because the third camel was a liar!
But we did not have the benefit of a blog title to give us the answer. So, like idiots, we spent some time discussing all of the possibilities with the other folks in the tent. Our friend and tour guide, Faraj, even tried to tell us the answer. However, he did not know how to say the word كذاب in English. (We should have known. The word pronounced kathab in Arabic is the same as the Hebrew root כזב/kazab, which means to lie.)
The next morning we packed ourselves into another minibus that took us from St. Katherine to Suez and put us on another bus from Suez to the city of Cairo.
Cairo was shocking from the beginning. Perhaps I am simply showing my ignorance with regard to the developing world, but still! Cairo is a huge city! 20 Million people live there! This isn’t some tiny village! Air pollution is reported to be between 10-100 times safe levels. Overall cleanliness is well below anything I’ve ever experienced. Many important laws go unenforced and as far as I am concerned, no American or Israeli has a claim to the title of most dangerous drivers in the world.
When we arrived in Cairo we took a taxi from the bus station to a hotel that had decent reviews. The Bella Luna Hotel suited our needs just fine. At 15 USD/night per couple it was our most expensive accommodations for the entire trip! After we settled up at the front desk we had three important missions and a limited amount of time as shabbat was approaching.

The view from our hotel room balcony.
The first mission was food. The concierge at our hotel directed us to a restaurant nearby that served koshary (كشرى), a traditional Egyptian food. We had no idea what a treat we were in for with this delicious treat! Koshary consists of a base of rice, brown lentils, chickpeas, macaroni, and a topping of Egyptian garlic and vinegar and spicy tomato sauce. Fried onions are commonly added as a garnish. By the end of our stay in Cairo, we would dine at three different Koshary restaurants: El Tahrir, another on Kuwait St. and the famous Abou Tarek restaurant. We quickly fell in love with this delicious, filling and inexpensive food. Depending on the size you order and the restaurant, a bowl of koshary will cost you between .50 and 1.75 USD.
The other delicacy we tried in Cairo was fuul (فول). Think of houmous, but with fava beans instead of chickpeas. Delicious! We tried this at Akher-Saa Restaurant.
Mission number two: With full bellies, we walked to the Shar Ha-Shamayim Synagogue. The synagogue was completed in 1899 and at one point had an active congregation. It is estimated today that there remains 30-40 members, mostly old women. The building is heavily guarded by the Egyptian police. In order to enter you must give over your passport. No photos are allowed inside or outside of the building. When we entered the woman at the door tried to get us to give her money, but we did not. It was clear that she was hired to welcome tourists and that the money would never have actually made it to the Jews of Cairo. She began to spout off facts about Judaism, the synagogue and the Jewish community of Cairo. It seemed as if she had googled Judaism and was regurgitating what she could remember from the articles she read. Some facts were correct and others were not. This was quite depressing. The building was beautiful inside and out. However the reminder of the destruction of vibrant Jewish communities throughout the Arab world where Jews lived as second-class citizens put a damper on our afternoon.
As we left the synagogue, Ethan made a remark that challenged my gloomy mood. He agreed that the story of Jewish Cairo today is quite depressing. However, he challenged me to think about what the synagogue’s early members would think about the fact that most of the surviving members of Arab Jewish communities were now residents of the modern State of Israel. Surely they would see this as a dream come true.
Onward to mission three: Shabbat preparation. We brought shabbat candles, a bottle of kiddush wine purchased at the Tel Aviv Central Bus Station (yuck!) and other assorted food items. At the market (سوق), we purchased the other items we would need to make shabbat in our hotel room. We ate dinner, quietly sang some songs and played a game of cribbage (which I won!) before bedtime.
We caught up on a bit of sleep on Shabbat morning. After which, we went for a stroll around Cairo. We checked out the Khan al-khalili neighborhood. This area is home to a large bazaar and many impressive mosques. Among the mosques we visited were the al-Husseini and al-Azhar mosques. Some of the worshipers inside were more than happy to show us around inside with the hopes that we would give them a small donation (baksheesh/بقشيش)
Late Saturday afternoon we walked to the Garden City area along the Nile River. Seeing the Nile was pretty cool, but a bit sad as the Cairo smog kept us from seeing any sort of sunset or even the other side of the river. After Shabbat, our plan was to head back to the khan al-khalili neighborhood, but an ill-intentioned cab driver ruined those plans for us. We tried to shake this one off and headed for some koshary therapy instead!
Sunday was a very busy and exciting day! We hired a car to take us to Giza, just outside of Cairo. Giza is the home to the sphinx and the great pyramids. People had told me that seeing these wonders was a bit underwhelming. I couldn’t disagree more! Never in my life did I think I would have the opportunity to stand next to these ancient and giant monuments. It was unfortunate that we had to wait three hours for the Cairo smog to rise enough for us to really see the pyramids, we were constantly fending off camel drivers asking for money and at times we had to trudge through garbage in order to get from one pyramid to another. But all in all we had a fantastic time.

“Kiss the sfankus” yelled one of the locals!

How could you not?

From L to R: Erin, Ethan, Aviva and Scott - We had a fabulous time with
our travel buddies!
After Giza, we returned to Cairo proper to check out the Cairo Museum. I was very excited to see many of the ancient Egyptian artifacts up-close. This too straddled the line between really cool and really sad. While seeing all of the museum’s contents was amazing, the place is filthy. The Cairo smog comes through the open windows and layers much of the museum with dust and grime. Most of the items are poorly labeled if they are labeled at all. Our guidebook told us that some of the artifacts that were being stored in the basement of the museum (the museum is much too small for everything they house there) have sunken into the basement floor and are being re-excavated by archaeologists.
Unfortunately, we do not have any pictures from the museum as cameras are not allowed inside. A guard at the door tried to get me to hand over my camera to the guards outside the museum while we walked around. No way in hell was that happening. I took the camera tripod in my hand and pretended to walk outside and give the camera to the guards. Before I did so I gave Aviva the actual camera bag and told her to make a run for it into the museum. Our little play distracted the guard enough that he eventually gave up on us and my camera remained in my possession. (Earlier in the day, the second time we walked up to the Sphinx, someone tried to stop me from taking pictures as well. Ethan and I performed a similar routine.)
We were sad to leave our friends Erin and Ethan on Sunday, but Aviva had to get back to school and I think we had taken in our fill of Cairo. We boarded another overnight bus from Cairo to Taba and crossed back into Israel first thing Monday morning.
All in all we had a fabulous trip. Aviva and I are so thankful to our friends Erin and Ethan for taking us on this little adventure. Egypt is a gorgeous place that oozes history and ancient artifacts. With a little elbow grease, (in the form of huge cultural changes) it could be so much more.
Aviva goes on tiyul! (field trips)

Aviva points out parts of the security fence to her boss and some
of her students.
In the past three weeks Scott and I have been going about our normal routines and hence, have felt that blog-worthy events were few. Yet as I sit down to write this blog post I get the feeling that it will be a long one and hopefully one worth the read.
These weeks have been filled with my first few papers, homework assignments and group projects. School is demanding and rewarding. I am learning a lot and meeting interesting people. Hopefully I'll get some good grades as well. I have been better about not procrastinating with my assignments for school than I have been about not procrastinating on this blog post!
I know you've all been anticipating a Savta Rachel story so here are a few to share: We met Rachel's daughter who was in town for a special reunion. In June she turned 60 and she came back to her childhood home to celebrate her special birthday with three other women who were also born that same week in June at Beit Kadima. One of these women, Ruti, lives upstairs from us in the same apartment she has lived in her whole life. Have we mentioned that we love where we live?

A new picture that we recently found. This is the building in which
we currently live taken some time in the mid-late 1940’s.
Savta story two: The other day she knocked on our door to tell us that she had brought a quilt up from her storage unit downstairs (apparently it is autumn here but nobody told the weather as it has been in the 80s with no rain for several weeks. Still, Israelis think it is getting cold. Go figure. Also, see this article). That was a side story. The real reason she knocked on the door was to tell Steech, I mean, Scotch, I mean Scott (yes, she calls him all those names) that he has to go out and water the garden. She also wanted to know if one of us would go down the block to Bein Aza L'Berlin (a local falafel joint) and pick up her dinner. She had ordered and payed for it earlier in the day but it was too far for her to go back and pick it up. I volunteered to take the walk. I had absolutely no trouble getting food from a restaurant without having a receipt or order number. All I had to say was that I was picking up an order for Savta Avramitzky and I could have all the kubbe soup I want!

Scott helps Savta Rachely water her flowers, a job he has taken to doing twice weekly!
Now for the good stuff: On Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday of this week I went on amazing tiyulim (trips) with students in the seminaries where the DP teaches its curriculum, Understanding the Arab-Israeli Conflict. Tuesday and Thursday were the same trip with the theme of Jewish Identity (so I will write about them as one) and Wednesday had the theme of Security. During the Identity trip our first stop was at Emek Zurim. This is a site where the rubble and debris for the illegal digging on the Temple Mount was dumped over ten years ago. Six years after archaeologists started going through the rubble they are only about halfway done. At this site the students heard from archaeologists (my peeps) about the history of Jerusalem, especially the Temple Mount, Har Habayit, and then they had a chance to help sort through buckets of the debris to see what artifacts could be salvaged. Even though I was not dressed appropriately for getting dirty, I really had a good time with the students and the sifting. Groups found mosaic tiles, glass of all sorts, dozens of types of pottery, and the best find of all, a bronze coin from the Hasmonean period and a glass weight that looked like a contact lens for measuring gold from the first Temple period.
We then went to the Hoshen building on the Mount of Olives which overlooks the Temple Mount from the eastern side; a perspective from which I have never seen the Temple Mount. This part of eastern Jerusalem is entirely Arab. There was almost no Hebrew visible or audible on signs or in the streets. We went to this particular building for a discussion on rights to the land and what we would be willing to give up for peace. It was especially interesting for me to listen to what these 18 year old religious girls had to say about the land of Israel and contrast it with the things that they will likely be facing next fall on college campuses. How much of Jerusalem 'belongs' to Israel? What would we, should we, could we be willing to give for a real peace with our neighbors? These are the types opf questions we discussed while overlooking the Temple Mount from the East. Had we been sitting at that spot 1900 years ago we would have been able to hear the Levites singing and see the Kohanim going about their business.
The next stop was Save a Child's Heart in Holon. I was unable to join this part of the trip on Tuesday because I had to get to class but I did it on Thursday and it was the highlight of the trip. We first met Devorah (an olah from NY and sister of a good friend of ours) at the Wolfson medical Center near Tel Aviv to learn about SACH and see a short video about their work. SACH brings children from developing countries to Israel for completely free heart surgeries and treatments. They also train doctors from these countries so that they can return to their homes and treat children who are not able to come to Israel and Israeli doctors go to the partner countries to train doctors and nurses on their home turf. All of this work is public diplomacy - it is a way for people from all over the world who would never otherwise know anything about Israel or ever have the opportunity to meet an Israeli (or even a Jew, for that matter) to have a positive experience and association with Israel. We then visited the pediatric ward of the hospital and got to meet one of the doctors who volunteers his time pro-bono, just like all the other staff of the hospital that is involved with SACH.
By far the best part of the day was visiting the house where the children live with their mothers (or sometimes alone if they are older than 5). The children generally stay in the house for up to three months which includes pre-surgery tests and recovery. All of this is paid for by private donations and grants from various governments including one specifically to work with children from the Palestinian Authority. The children we met this week were from Ethiopia, Panama, Ghana and Angola and they were all amazing.
On Wednesday we had a very different kind of trip. Because this trip was focused on security issues our first stop was to an overlook in Gilo, the southernmost neighborhood in Jerusalem.
View Gilo/Beit Jala in a larger map
I had not been to this spot since 2002 when I was a freshman in college. Then, it was at the height of the second intifada and the security barrier was just going up. This southern tip of Gilo was one of the first places to get the concrete barrier because Palestinians living in the valley in the town of Beit Jalah would shoot at the apartment buildings on the hill in Gilo. Today, the barriers are gone. They started coming down this summer because, thankfully, the situation has been quiet in the area. What really left an impression was how deserted things seemed in Beit Jalah. I remember it feeling so tense 8 years ago and by contrast, extremely calm today. Let's hope it can stay this way.
Leaving Gilo, we boarded the buses and headed to Sderot. Anyone who has been following the news from this region has likely heard of Sderot as the town were many of the 8000+ Hamas kassam rockets that have been fired in the last 5 years have landed. The most immediate and striking thing about Sderot is that it is a very drab town - and I got the feeling that it was like that long before there were rockets falling on it and it was in the news all the time. The whole feeling of the town was a little sad. All the bus stops are fortified bomb shelters. We visited a playground that has large concrete caterpillars and a princess castle bomb shelters.

Sderot playground/bomb shelter.
We went to an overlook 1 kilometer from the Gaza border and saw just how close the rockets and mortars are.
View Sderot Hilltop in a larger map
I am glad I got to see some of these things with my own eyes rather than just reading or hearing about them. I really felt a sense of how inter-connected all these places are when I stood on a hilltop and looked at Gaza City a little over a kilometer from where I was.
In happier news, rosh chodesh kislev came and sufganiot arrived in town! We learned that we can get Sam Adam’s beer on tap and the new Mike's Place bar. We are looking forward to the Hartman Shabbaton at kibbutz Chanaton next weekend and we are planning a Chanukkah trip Egypt with some friends.
One last note. We recently had the opportunity to go see our first movie in Israel. This was quite an experience. When we arrived, a friend showed us the charging stations that had recently been built in the parking lot as part of Israel’s soon to be network for electric cars! (See link and picture below) After entering we promptly walked toward the snack counter. As it turns out, the candy selection was quite limited. We skipped the mentos and tictacs and went for some good old fashioned popcorn. Acceptable behavior in Israeli movie theaters is a bit different from we are used to. As the locals are primarily reading the Hebrew subtitles, they feel free to chat away, answer their ringing cellphones etc. We were a bit surprised when the movie suddenly stopped in the middle. We thought it may have been some sort of malfunction, but as it turns out it was just a cigarette/bathroom/maybe the snack bar finally got the soda machine working break.

A blurry picture of Aviva pointing out the new infrastructure
built by A Better Place for electric cars in Israel!
Why are so many of our posts about wine?

Standing in part of an ancient wine press at Kibbutz Tzuba Winery.
Though our academic schedules are now in full-swing, Aviva and I have been trying to make time for the occasional outing. It would be a shame to leave Israel having only seen the walls of our respective classrooms.
One such outing, was actually a “field-trip” for my Talmud class. I am very lucky this year to have the brilliant, hysterical and caring Talmud teacher, Rabbi Zvi Hirshfield at Pardes. Over Sukkot, Zvi invited our Talmud class to his sukkah for a delightful meal. We had the chance to meet Zvi’s wife and four children, who share many of the same characteristics as Zvi. His wife, Dena, even let us persuade her to join us for a birding outing during Sukkot! Zvi’s third youngest child, Tani, will be come a Bar Mitzvah in the coming weeks. As is the tradition among Eastern European Jews, a Bar Mitzvah boy begins putting on Tefillin, or phylacteries, in the weeks leading up to his Bar Mitzvah in order to become comfortable performing this slightly awkward commandment. Zvi and Dena were kind enough to invite our entire Talmud class to join their family at the Western Wall as Tani put on Tefillin for the first time. Tani did a great job. We joined together with some other families celebrating joyous occasions for morning services and then had a snack, heard some words of Torah from Zvi and toasted Tani on his special day.


After the celebration, Aviva and I took a taxi back to our apartment. During this short ride, we had one of those, “only in Israel” moments. This expression is well known among travelers to Israel as describing an occurrence that could happen...bet you can’t guess...only in Israel! We got into the cab and asked the driver to take us to our apartment building. Shortly after, he received a phone call. Lucky for us, he answered it on speaker phone. From what we could make out of their very thick accents going at the speed of light, was that the driver was awaiting an answer to a Jewish legal question he had a friend ask the famous Rabbi Ovadia Yosef on his behalf. Ovadia Yosef is a former Sephardi Chief Rabbi of Israel, a brilliant Jewish legal mind and a leader in Israel’s Shas political party. While he continues to be quite a controversial player in Israeli politics, he is lauded for his photographic memory, allowing him to recall a lifetime of Jewish learning in an instant.
It seemed that the driver was somehow related to a a newly-observant couple who were blessed with a healthy baby boy. The brit milah, or ritual circumsision, was to happen on the coming Shabbat. While traditionally observant Jews usually refrain from activities classified as work on Shabbat, a brit milah is not postponed due to Shabbat. The issue was, that the new parents knew that if they were to hold the ritual on Shabbat, that their non-observant family would travel to Jerusalem on Shabbat for the ceremony and thereby transgress on account of the new parents. Our cab driver wanted to know if the new parents should postpone the ritual, or have their family members desecrate Shabbat in order to attend. Rabbi Ovadia Yosef decided that the brit milah should not be postponed, and that the new parents did not need to fret over their actions of their relatives.
Only in Jerusalem can you get a cab ride home with the bonus of Jewish legal discourse.
The following evening was Yom Rabin, the 15th anniversary of the assassination of Israeli Prime MInister, Yitzhak Rabin, by Jewish zealot, Yigal Amir. For many years after Rabin’s assassination, he was praised for being the Israeli politician who had come closest to creating a real peace between Israelis and Palestinians. Fifteen years later, Israelis seem to be a bit less sure of Rabin’s legacy. Enough years seem to have passed that it is less of a taboo to criticize the former Prime Minister and question his methods and intentions. Academics and journalists have uncovered past speeches and formerly classified documents that have shed much light in this arena. Some have proposed that the take-away is that Israel is lacking leaders of Rabin’s caliber, others that it is the strength of Israel as a democracy to have survived a transfer of power under such circumstances. The far-left mourns and imagines what would have become if Rabin had been given some more time and the far-right praises Yigal Amir for redirecting the bullet they felt was headed toward the Land of Israel, toward Rabin’s heart. All that said, as the evening approaches, (this day of mourning is now marked on the Hebrew date of Rabin’s assassination and therefore begins at sundown) the music on the radio switches into minor tones and mournful music plays throughout the next day. Various gatherings occur around the country. Life goes on as normal, but downplayed just a touch.
I spent the evening of Yom Rabin together with a group of future rabbinical colleagues at the Shalom Hartman Center, where I am enrolled in a seminar for rabbinical students from across the denominations. We spoke together of legacy and zealotry. We studied two songs closely associated with Rabin’s assassination. The first was shir l’shalom, written by Yankele Rotblatt and composed by Yair Rosenblum. We watched this YouTube video of the song being performed in the 70’s by an IDF show group. (Look closely at the one person standing and singing along with the group. I will award a prize to the first person to identify him!) When the song first came out, it was banned for its message that we must move past mourning for those who gave their lives for their country and begin singing songs of peace. In another YouTube video filmed two decades later, supporters of peace process joined together in singing this song at Kings of Israel Square. That night Rabin was assassinated. The square now bears his name. Another song we studied was livkhot lekha, written and composed by Aviv Geffen. You can see a video of the artist performing the song here. This video was filmed at a memorial ceremony a few days after Rabin’s assassination. It is a song of mourning meaning, To Cry for You.
My take-away from Yom Rabin was that just as in 1970 many Israelis were not ready to hear the difficult anti-war lyrics of shir la’shalom and then sang the words in a huge public rally 25 years later, and just as in 1995 Israel was not ready to give up land and 10 years later we experienced the disengagement from Gaza, is that new and difficult ideas take time, patience and buy-in from those who will sacrifice/have sacrificed as they’ve come about.
Two Fridays ago, Aviva and I joined our friend Esther Cohen of My Israel Wine Tours for a tour of two Judean Hills wineries. Esther used to work with Aviva in the Boston Israel education/advocacy community. Two years ago Esther made aliyah and worked for the Tishbi Winery. After some time, she recognized a need for English-speaking tours of Israel’s relatively new winemaking industry. Thus, My Israel Wine Tours was born. We had a fantastic time on a small bus with about 20 other people visiting the Tzuba Winery on Kibbutz Tzuba and the Agur Winery. You can read more about our day on the My Israel Wine Tours blog. Our tour and our picture was also picked up by the website, yeahthatskosher.com.

Some other highlights from the past few days in picture form:

Aviva, Shuli, and Erin enjoy the Judean Hills Wine Festival at Kibbutz Tzora

Our friend Shuli visits and enjoys “Shoko b’sakit” (Chocolate Milk in a baggy)

We were honored to attend the Brit Milah of baby Nadav
Shlezinger, the newborn son of our friends Hadar and Noam
and little brother to their daughter, Avia.

Dinner at El gaucho steakhouse for our friend Hal’s Birthday!

Aviva was hard at work in the kitchen while Scott surrounded her
with goodies made from our CSA box this week. Sauteed Swiss
Chard, Beet Greens and Green Beans, Beet and Sweet
Potato Salad, and Bruschetta.
Okay, really the last week of freedom! (for Aviva)

Aviva poses with “The Hovering Orange Tree” in Yafo.
It has been several weeks since I have written a blog post and I have gathered a few things to discuss in that amount of time.
First, I'll start with the visitors we’ve had. For a few months now we have been anticipating the arrival of our friend Hal's parents, Pami & Harvey. We met Hal's 'rents at a family weekend at Hebrew College in April and had a great time with them. For some time we have been excited about seeing them in Israel. Hal had class during a few of the days that his parents were here so I actually spent an entire day with them running around all over Jerusalem. We went to lunch on Emek Refaim, went shopping on Rechov Yaffo and walked around in the Machane Yehuda marketplace. While in Machane Yehuda we were approached by three young soldiers. I could tell right away that they were on a scavenger hunt. One had a check list in his had and another had his camera out. They asked if we were tourists and if they could take a picture of us. If you have ever been to Israel then you probably recognize the irony and hilarity of this situation. Usually it is the tourists who are asking to take pictures with the soldiers. I told them, in beautiful Hebrew, that I am not a tourist but a Jerusalemite and I would be happy to take their picture with the visitors from Baltimore :-)

Harvey and Pami took us out to dinner a few nights later as a 'thank you' for hosting Hal his first week in Israel while he looked for an apartment. Beijing kosher Chinese is way better than Taam China!

A few days later our friend Marie came to town and boy was I glad. After the holidays and before school really started I was getting a little lonely and bored hanging out by myself. I was glad to have the company. Marie and I spent the day walking - to the center of town, to the old city in search of a book store (we found it eventually), back to town for lunch, shopping and then back to our place.
On Sunday I met Marie in Tel Aviv for a beach day. We could hardly believe that it is October and still in the 80's and we were chilling on the beach. The day was a bit overcast and the water was really rough so around 2pm we decided to pack it up and walk to Yaffo. We walked along the water and watched the surfers and kite-surfers enjoy the waves. Our route took us past the Dolphinarium night club, the site of a terrorist attack in the summer of 2001 that killed 21 teenagers. There is a small memorial monument outside the club. The building was never rebuilt and sits empty and destroyed at the water's edge. I think the owners left it that way as a reminder to all the beach-goers and partiers that things weren't always as good or as calm as they are now.
Marie and I continued our walk and stopped at a yummy bakery at the bottom of Old Yaffo. It is a family owned place that has been there since the 1890's! We got some snacks and headed up the hill to munch with a view. Then we walked around town, especially in the artists' colony. We passed at least 12 brides and their photographers at various places around town. The bridal fashions of girls in Yaffo were not, ummmm, our taste, shall we say...tacky would be putting it nicely.

Around 4:30 I caught a bus back to the central bus station in Tel Aviv and headed back to Jerusalem to meet some friends for 'ladies night.' I think we will make it a regular thing.
Today I started my MA classes. I have class from 2pm-9pm on Mondays and Tuesdays and 2-3:30 on Thursdays. Thankfully I have a ride most of the time. My classes today were 'International Mediation,' 'Workshop in Decision Making' (which is basically learning about game theory), and 'Research Methods' a statistics class. Tomorrow I have 'Diplomacy & Conflict in the Era of Globalization,' 'Law & International Conflict,' 'Strategy & Deterrence,' and 'Public & Economic Diplomacy.' Can you tell that all of those classes are required for my specialization? On Thursdays I am hoping to get off of the waiting list and officially into 'Terrorism & Counter-Terrorism.' I'll keep you posted. Today was a really good day and I am looking forward to the rest of the week, semester, year here, learning as much as I can.
On our way to school we pass through a security post on the highway which is a lot like going through an EZ-Pass but without the toll. You slow down a bit and they waive you through. The other day on the way to school we were actually stopped at the security post. We rolled down the window and the guard at the post thanked us for stopping, gave us some candies and sent us on out way. This left us puzzled but happy to enjoy the candies.
We have a cat. We didn't intend to get a cat, and we didn't really get him, he sort of decided on us. You see there are actually several cats that have chosen our garden and mirpeset (porch) as their own. There is a black one and two gray stripy ones. One of the gray cats has orange splotches on his back (like he was bleached) so we call him Clorox. The other gray one is Windex. Windex likes to sleep on a canvas director's chair on our porch. He is always there. When we come home at night, he's there. When we leave in the morning, he's often there. He doesn't run away when we open the door or come up on the porch. He usually just looks up at us with a 'Oh, you again' look and then closes his eyes. Tonight, Scott went outside to find Clorox and Windex snuggling on the chair.

One more note about the weather, holidays and agriculture in Israel. Living in the diaspora, we know somewhere in the back of our minds, that our holidays, and really our entire Jewish calendar are based on agriculture and the changing seasons in Israel. Living in Israel, we are acutely aware of these changes. Last week, during Shmini Atzeret we began praying for rain each day in the Amidah. We say 'mashiv ha ruach u'morid hagashem' - 'may you cause the winds to return and the rains to fall.' Less than a week later, the weather gets cooler and the winds start to blow.
It is still warm during the day in Jerusalem (and especially on the coast) but at night we are down to the 50's and you need an extra layer. This past Shabbat was parashat Noach. Scott and I were preparing at home on Friday afternoon when I heard a strange noise outside. I opened the front door to a downpour! It has been so long since we have seen rain that I didn't even recognize the sound at first. Scott was so thrilled that he ran outside and danced a little jig. It rained for about 10 minutes and then the sun came out again. On Shabbat day we had a few more downpours like that and it made us really appreciate that we live here and can experience the changing of the seasons in their time.
In a similar vein, this week we should be receiving our first CSA box of fresh organic veggies. A few months ago I read The Omnivore's Dilemma' and 'In Defense of Food' by Michael Pollen and I became extremely interested in knowing where my food comes from. We didn't have the time to sign up for a CSA (community supported agriculture) group in Boston but when I heard about one in Israel I was very excited. One of the things I took from these books is that eating locally grown fruits and vegetables is healthier for you and for the environment in so many ways. The CSA we joined is based on a farm near Latrun. It is organic and each week (or every two weeks depending on how much we use) we will get a box of veggies from the farm delivered to our house with a newsletter and recipe suggestions for how to use our box contents. We are looking forward to supporting Israeli agriculture and organic farming and eating healthy fresh foods all at the same time.

(Editors note: Before posting this blog, we received our CSA box
containing dill, parsley, cucumbers, tomatoes, potatoes, sweet potatoes,
green onions, spinach, corn, radishes and squash!)
This week we are looking forward to more school, pot luck Shabbat dinner with the whole HC crew and finishing my project for my prerequisite class.
Days of Awe(some stuff to do in Israel)!

A duel to the death in our Jerusalem sukkah. Scott tries to defend
himself against the 200 cm lulav.
So it seems that Aviva and I have managed to go some time without posting. The past two weeks have been packed with holidays and enormous to-do lists that haven’t been so conducive to blogging. So please forgive me if this post is longer than usual.
We last posted just before Yom Kippur. Aviva and I spent most of the holiday in prayer with Kehillat Kedem. We ended the holiday right around the corner from our house at Hechal Ariel. Hechal Ariel is a small, Ashkenazi, synagogue that meets on the corner of Herzog and Haim Hazaz Streets in The Valley of the Cross. We ended up at Hechal Ariel after we were given the wrong address for another minyan, but in the end it was just enough and a pleasant end to the holiday.
The most amazing thing about Yom Kippur in Israel is the traffic. Actually, it is the fact that there is none. In a country whose roads are usually jam packed with cars, not a single car hits the pavement on Yom Kippur. All of the traffic lights are switched to flashing yellow and we saw no cars other than the occasional police car or ambulance. After Kol Nidre, Emek Refaim, which is usually a pretty busy street, turned into a parade of people dressed in white and walking down the middle of the street. On Yom Kippur, secular Israeli children take advantage of the empty roads by hitting the streets on bicycles, skateboards, scooters and anything else that can be used to zip down Jerusalem’s famous hills. The Jerusalem Post reported that, ‘Days before Yom Kippur are a bike sellers’ bonanza.’ Seconds after the final shofar blast of Yom Kippur’s final service, Neila, we watched the traffic lights change back to normal and the roads flood with cars. I’ve pasted a picture below of one of Aviva’s classmates who took Yom Kippur as an opportunity to ride her bike down Israel’s Ayalon highway with a friend.

As soon as Yom Kippur ends, it is a custom to show one’s zeal for performing religious rites by immediately beginning to prepare for the Sukkot holiday that follows. Aviva and I were fortunate enough to be able to borrow a sukkah from a friend. After we broke our fast, we shlepped its pieces back to our house and got everything ready to be constructed the next morning. Our neighbor, Savta Rachely, told us that this is the first time in the 63 years that she has been living in the building that a sukkah has been built outside of our apartment.

After the sukkah was built, we had a bit of time to get ready for the holiday. Before we began to acquire all of the things we would need for Sukkot, we gave ourselves an evening of just having fun with friends. As I mentioned in the last post, Aviva and I walked a friend back home to her dorm at Jerusalem University College after a Rosh Hashanah dinner at our house. While visiting the dorm’s Mt. Zion location, we couldn’t help but notice that the dorm overlooks Sultan’s Pool. Sultan’s pool is a site that has left behind its minor historical significance and been turned into a fairly decent concert arena. Aviva and I attended a concert there earlier this summer. The night we were introduced to this beautiful overlook we commented that we would have to come back again when there was a concert that we wanted to see down below at Sultan’s Pool. Not long after, we learned that Yehuda Poliker would be performing at the venue on September 21. Yehuda Poliker is an Israeli folk/rock artist that we were introduced to several years ago. So, we gathered together some friends and climbed Mt. Zion to overlook and overhear the concert. The concert was great and the company even better!


A few notes about Sukkot in Israel:
-In the US Sukkot go in back yards. In Israel, Sukkot go wherever there is room. We were fortunate enough to build one in front of our house. One of my favorite sukkot around the corner is constructed atop a platform that raises it to the level of the first floor balcony so that its owners can walk right out from their living room, climb over the railing of their balcony and out into their sukkah. One of my other favorites is one that we spotted on the beach in Haifa. It is the sukkah built outside of a camper pictured below!

-One of the commandments of the Sukkot holiday is to gather together the arba minim, or four species of plants dictated in Leviticus 23:40. In the US I take whichever arba minim I can get. In Israel we have choices! Much to Aviva's dismay, after two hours of searching I found the ideal etrog to go with my 200 cm Yeminite Lulav. (Aviva said people might think I was compensating for something...I'm not quite sure what she was talking about).
-Our sages understood dwelling in the sukkah to mean eating and sleeping. I love sleeping in the sukkah. (Don’t get me wrong, I love eating in it too!) As it turns out, so do Jerusalem street cats. They nap on sukkah tables, try to pounce on each other through the sukkah walls, etc. One morning a cat was even kind enough to paw at my arm and wake me. I keep telling them that we did not build our sukkah for them. They disagree.
-We have been blessed to have many guests in our sukkah. Friends, classmates and some total strangers. So far, one of our favorite ushpizin (guests) has been our adopted Savta Rachely. Some of you might remember Savta Rachely from previous posts. She brings us chocolate to our sukkah almost every day, helps us eat baked goods and even made the blessing over gathering together the four species in our sukkah. She said shehekhiyanu, followed by "Baruch atah hashem elokeynu melekh haolam al halulav v'al haetrog." (Blessed are you Hashem our God upon the date palm and the citron.) This is a bit of a bastardization of the traditional prayer for doing this action, but as far as I am concerned, Savta Rachely has more than earned the right to do what she wants in this world. Then she shook the lulav and reminded us of her grandfather the Bratslaver (a sect of hasidim). "He was a real Bratslaver, not like those crazy ones we have today!"

Sukkot lasts seven days in Israel and eight outside of Israel (find the reason here). The first and last days of the holiday are observed similar to Shabbat. The intermediate days are still very much part of the holiday observance, but with fewer restrictions on how we spend our time. In Israel, this is a very popular vacation time. On the morning of the first intermediate day we walked to the Old City with some friends to experience the infamous Birkat Hakohanim, or Cohen’s Blessing, at the Western Wall. During the intermediate days of Sukkot and Passover, the Western Wall Plaza becomes a pilgrimage site for kohanim, (of the Jewish priestly caste having descended from Moses’ brother, Aaron). They gather together to bless all of those present with the threefold benediction of their caste. We were told that this was a sight not to be missed. After waiting in awful heat for some time we witnessed the first of two recitations that would happen that morning. Overall, we were a bit underwhelmed. This ritual is one for which I feel a bit of indifference and one that Aviva finds hugely problematic. In short, after the destruction of the Holy Temple in Jerusalem, this caste system was rendered somewhat useless. In its time it was often a system of corruption and discrimination. Some think that those priestly descendants living today who feel they are of a higher level of sanctity than the rest of us are just kidding themselves. Perhaps more on this in a future post. For now, you can see the video here--->Sukkot Birkat HaKohanim at the Kotel
After leaving the Old City, Aviva and I set off to car rental agencies in an effort to try to spend a few days venturing outside of Jerusalem on our own. We ended up being very fortunate to grab the last available car at the first agency we checked out. (As I mentioned, this is a very popular vacation time in Israel. We didn’t have time to comparison shop and gladly took what we were offered.) With freedom in the form of a beat up Hyundai Matrix, we were able to have a few adventures.
Our first trip was outside of Jerusalem to the town of Alon Shvut, where we had a lovely dinner in the sukkah of one of my teachers from Pardes. This was only about a 30 minute drive from our house, but not having to take the bus made life a lot easier. While at my teacher’s house, we recruited his wife to join us on the adventure we were planning for the next morning.
The following morning we woke up early and set out for Kibbutz Tzora to attend the annual Kingfisher Festival with the Jerusalem Bird Observatory. We arrived a bit late after having learned and relearned the lesson that on Israeli highways, there isn’t necessarily agreement between what a sign says warning of an approaching exit and the exit sign itself. Nonetheless, the folks at the festival welcomed us warmly and assisted us in adding over a dozen new birds to our life list. After the initial hike, we watched as the staff from the JBO banded and released the birds they had caught earlier that morning. Later that evening, we met up with my Hebrew College classmates at the home of our Israel Program Director for a delicious barbecue.
During the final of the intermediate days, Aviva and I drove up Israel’s western coast and spend the day in Haifa. Our first stop was at the beach. Having grown up with the Jersey Shore, Aviva and I were amazed at how easy it was to find parking. We were doubly shocked that there was no fee for parking or for entering the beach. We set up camp, read in the sun and took breaks swimming in the Mediterranean sea. The water was clean, clear and refreshing.

After the beach we headed to downtown Haifa for lunch. After lunch we hopped on a tour of the Bahai Gardens, a first for both of us. Take a look at the photography section of the site to see a picture of the landscape/seascape view from the top of the Bahai gardens. For now, in case you aren’t already sick of seeing pictures of the two of us, here is another from the gardens:

After leaving the gardens, we began our journey back down the coast at sunset. It was a gorgeous way to end a gorgeous day. (Until we got back to Jerusalem and the last few km of our trip took us 45 minutes. Welcome home!?) The next morning we returned our car and prepared for what turned out to be a pretty uneventful end of the holiday.
A phrase we’ve heard many times over the last month is, “Akharey hakhagim (after the holidays).” In Israel, as the fall holidays approach and throughout the holidays themselves, folks use this phrase to allude to something that is being put off until after the holidays are over. In truth, the fall schedule doesn’t really get started until after the holidays are over. So on this eve of “Akharey hakhagim,” we wish everyone one more Shanah Tovah u’Metukah, a happy and sweet new year! We look forward to starting our year off for real in the morning!
A happy start to 5771!

A picture of “Beit Kadima,” the building where we are living, taken
some time in the 1950’s. Recently borrowed and scanned from our
neighbor, Savta Rachely.
Shana Tovah u’Metukah v’ G’mar Khatimah Tovah! Aviva and I wish all of you a happy and sweet new year. May we all be inscribed only for good in 5771!
Reporting live from our kitchen and stuffed to the gills from two days of Rosh Hashana meals followed by Shabbat, here is how we spent our first Khag (Holiday) in Jerusalem and the preceding days:
We have been very busy since school started. On one hand it has been exciting to dive into the studies that are the main purpose of our being here. On the other, it means living like residents and not tourists. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, but it happened to be last Tuesday. Not having had the opportunity to get to the market in the days before, I went the day before Rosh Hashana. Not having had the opportunity to even get there that morning, I went at 5 pm. What a balagan (mess)! I won’t bore you with all of the details, but everything just took longer and I probably should have been wearing a helmet and pads.
I finally arrived home and rested up for the following day of cooking and cleaning. Aviva and I ended up hosting seven guests around our table for an erev Rosh Hashana meal. However, our holiday preparation was not without a bit of adventure. To make a long story short, Aviva has been dealing with an abnormal amount of insect bites for the past two weeks. At one point before the holiday began, we feared that the marks on her skin might be some sort of allergic reaction or who knows what else. About two hours before Rosh Hashana began, Aviva finally agreed to see a doctor. Aviva called our insurance company to see if there was any chance of getting an appointment two hours before Rosh Hashana. The woman on the phone gave Aviva two options. She should travel to the other side of town to a 24hr clinic, or we could have a doctor come to our house! The next logical question seemed to be, “What is the difference?” Now, when Americans ask this question, we realized that we are talking about the difference in cost. The woman on the phone answered, “Well, if he comes to your house it will be much more convenient for you.” There turned out to be no difference in cost at all. So, for less than five dollars, on erev Rosh Hashana, while I chopped up fruit salad in the kitchen, a doctor came to our apartment to examine Aviva. He was very pleasant and wished us a happy new year as he left. In the end, Aviva is just fine and we have another great story to add to our repertoire!
Our guests came and we had a lovely holiday meal. One of our guests was a former participant in one of Aviva’s programs at the David Project. She happens to be studying at Jerusalem University College, so Aviva connected with her and asked her to join our table. Not wanting to make her walk home alone, Aviva and I escorted her back to her campus after dinner. Prior to dinner, we had never heard of Jerusalem University College. Without someone pointing it out, you would never even know it was there. It happens to be located overlooking the Hinnom Valley and just a stone’s throw from the walls of the Old City. We consider ourselves lucky to have experienced the view from our friends campus. I hope to return there soon and capture some of it on film.
On the first day of Rosh Hashana, we prayed with the community at Kedem, an anglo and egalitarian minyan nearby. The services were spirited and well-organized for a completely lay-lead minyan. On day two, we found our way to the very unique, Minyan Degel Yehuda. Degel Yehuda is the only egalitarian Sephardic minyan I have ever heard of existing in the world. They generally meet on Friday nights in Talpiyot. The community is a mix of forward-thinking members of Sephardic communities, their families and other local folks in the know. Aviva, some of my classmates and myself made up a community of only 35 or so that morning. The minyan straddles the border between the old and the new by including Sefardim, Ashkenazim, men and women in their traditional style of prayer. It was quite remarkable! We look forward to going back soon for Kabbalat Shabbat.
On the way home from Rosh Hashana lunch, we were walking with our friend Hal, an accomplished ba’al tekiyah (shofar blower). Hal recently purchased a beautiful looking and sounding shofar in Jerusalem. We had the opportunity of hearing Hal sound his new shofar at Minyan Degel Yehdah. One of the first turns we made on our way back to our neighborhood after lunch led us through an active Jerusalem playground. The moment the children noticed Hal’s shofar they immediately stopped and waited patiently for him to give them a demonstration. Hal let out a few calls and we exited the playground to applause. On our 35 minute walk back home, Hal was stopped seven times and asked to sound his shofar. Children and adults alike wanted to hear its beautiful sound. We could not walk from one block to the next without being stopped. After being stopped the sixth time, Hal went off in a different direction. I’ve copied below Hal’s account of what happened next:
“On my walk home, I was stopped by random kids and adults about 7 times to sound my shofar, awestruck by its size... They loved hearing it. However, the last time was the best. 15 minutes before Shabbat came in, I encountered a Haredi (ultra-orthodox) man waiting outside a shul to see if anyone was there to blow shofar for his wife, who had been home taking care of a sick child all day. But the shul was strangely locked (since most people would be gathering for Mincha
Soon after this, Rosh Hashana came to an end and led us into a very restful Shabbat.
Stay tuned for the following updates in our next post:
Yom Kippur
Sukkot
Scott’s Pardes Retreat
Aviva attends the 10th annual World Conference on Counterterrorism
and more!
There ain't no party like a Torah party.

Scott takes his turn kissing a new Torah scroll as it is welcomed
to its new home.
School has officially begun! While I am settling into my routine at Pardes, Aviva has been traveling to Herzliya almost every day to complete two prerequisite courses for her master’s program. We miss our daily adventures, but we remind ourselves that our schooling is the primary reason we came over here. Even so, we learned that it is still possible to stumble upon an adventure once in a while.
As we walked home from an orientation dinner at the Conservative Yeshiva last week, we heard loud music coming from the end of our street. It seemed as if people were pulling up in their cars, parking quickly and running out toward the music. We thought it might be a wedding, but followed the crowds for a closer look.
As it turned out, one of the local sephardi synagogues was having a hakhnasat sefer Torah, or welcoming a new Torah scroll into its community. On a random Tuesday evening, angry Israelis honked their horns as they could not pass through the streets because people were singing and dancing with a Torah scroll. Only in Israel!?
It was quite a scene. The parade had police escorts. Behind the police car was a large van with disco lights and mounted speakers playing joyous music. Behind the van a huppah (Jewish wedding canopy) was pushed along on wheels. People took turns holding the new Torah under the huppah and marching it around the neighborhood. Members of the synagogue danced around the Torah. At every turn, passersby who heard the music left their houses to join the celebration. It was quite a scene. Download this video of the parade--->Hakhnasat Sefer Torah
When the caravan made its way to the doors of the synagogue, the tone of the event grew very solemn. The community recited the words, “Shema Yisrael...,” and the Torah was placed into the aron kodesh of its new home. People handed out pastries and candies and the celebration continued inside the synagogue. This was definitely a rak b’yisrael, only in Israel, moment!
Before I turn this post over to Aviva, there are a few things I’ve been wanting to randomly mention. I figured it would be nice to get them out before the end of the year:
Cats: Jerusalem is full of street cats. At any given moment, we might count a dozen of them within a few steps from our front door. There are different stories as to why this problem exists. Some say that under the British Mandate, Jerusalem had a big mouse problem. The story goes that they released cats as the solution. This led to a street cat problem that exists over half a century later. (Not sure I buy this one, but it is the only story I’ve heard.) So, this leads me to a funny story about my lovely wife. Aviva has taken to naming the cats that we see regularly in our neighborhood. They are just too funny not to share. For example, the red cats are all called, Gingi (readhead). There is one cat that is all black with a white belly. Thus, he is called Captain White-belly. We make sure to salute him each time we pass him. After all, he is a captain. One evening we passed a cat with mottled coloring. Aviva decided that his name should be the tailor Mottle Kamzoil.
Rak Giluakh: My friend and classmate shared a story with me where he had a funny mix-up witht he Hebrew language when he first moved to Israel. He brought a shirt to the cleaners and wanted to be sure that it was only pressed, not cleaned. He looked up the word for pressing (gihutz) and set off for the cleaners. When he arrived, the word that jumped out of his mouth was giluakh (shaving) and proceeded to ask the proprietor to shave his shirt. Therefore, his family decided that from here on out all Hebrew mistakes should be written down in a collection called, “Rak Giluakh.” (Only Shaving)
If you can believe it, Aviva and I have had our fair share of “Rak Giluakh” moments. Aviva tends to mix up the word mikhnasayim (pants). Once she was looking for her sunglasses (mishkafayim), and asked rather if I had seen her pants. A similar mix-up occurred when she was reading the sign above a local electronics store called, Makhsanay Khashmal (Electronic Storeroom). Aviva read this as, mikhnasey khashmal, or electric pants.
When I went into a local store to buy some glue, I asked a salesperson if the glue would be gibor enough for its intended task. He corrected me and reminded me that I was looking for the word khazak. Khazak, means strong. Gibor means brave, courageous or heroic.
The Jewish State: Life in the Jewish State is very different from life in the US this time of year. On Sunday morning I took a bus from the synagogue where I was for morning services, to my school. As the bus pulled up, I noticed that the LED screen that usually flashes with the bus number and destination was also flashing with the words, Shana Tovah. The public busses drive around wishing residents a good Jewish new year. In the US, bottles of coke change around Christmastime to show their classic picture of St. Nick. Coke bottles in Israel this time of year wish everyone a Hag Samayach, or Happy Holidays.
Babies: Jerusalem is full of haredim. It follows that Jerusalem is also full of super-cute and brandy-new babies! You cannot get on a bus in town without spotting mothers and their babies. They shlep their babies and their strollers around the city on busses. Sometimes I will notice a new mother with one child who hasn’t yet gotten the hang of traveling around town with their few month-old. Other times it will be a more experienced mother with a small flock of children. The youngest of the flock can be a month old while the oldest is in their teens. Either way, getting around with the little ones can be difficult. On several occasions, I have seen mothers getting on busses with their babies and baby accouterment. They will bypass the driver so that they can get on quickly and find a place to sit. But, of course, they still have to pay! So, they hand off their babies to the closest capable-looking adult to “babysit” while they walk back to the front of the bus to get a ticket. I can almost hear the sound of my sister and sister in-law gasping while they read this. I assume they wouldn’t ever imagine handing off their infants to perfect strangers. Yet, there is something beautiful about this little custom. The babies are always accepted with love and taken care of until the mother returns to claim them.
There is plenty more where these came from. Check back for more soon.
I wish you all a Shana Tovah u’Metukah, a good and sweet 5771. May we all be inscribed only for good in the year to come!
AVIVA’S BLOG
This week Scott and I both started classes at our respective schools. For now, I am taking two prerequisite courses in preparation for my 'real' classes which begin in October. The IDC is sort of disorganized and makes a lot of assumptions. For example - before my first day of class, I had only been on campus once. I met with some administrators and showed my self around. When I asked for a campus map, I was told I would get in during my orientation week in October. Not very helpful when I need to find classrooms and buildings in September. Each of my courses has a website where, ideally, the syllabus of each class and assignments can be posted. Less than a day before my first class I received an e-mail with instructions on how to log into the IDC e-mail system. No one told me that I could also log into the course website and download assignments and readings. Good thing I wasn't the only one a bit unprepared for my first day of school.
As Scott and I mentioned in a previous post, Herzliya is not near Jerusalem and it takes several buses and/or trains to get from my house to school. Thankfully, my friend, Joe, an oleh hadash, or new immigrant to Israel, lives in Jerusalem and has a car. This drastically cuts down on my commute time and I am happy to help pay for gas and keep him company on the trip. The other day in the car we even got a few drops of rain on the windshield and we were both very excited to see rain in Israel in the summer.
On Shabbat we decided to check out an egalitarian synagogue on Emek Refaim called Kedem. Kedem is popular with a lot of the Rabbinical students from the CY and Schechter but this past shabbat there was a small crowd since it was right before Rosh Hashana and many of the rabbinical students have not yet arrived in Israel. The services were fine, the crowd was friendly and the kiddush was very nice. One of the leaders of the minyan is a girl who went to Yavneh with me and another is the daughter of a close friend of my mother.
Speaking of Yavneh, I got to see some old buddies from Yavneh this past week. I hadn't seen most of them in over 8 years and it was great to catch up. I also got to host some Rutgers pals this week when Taly and Ashley came to Jerusalem to play with me!
Scott and I are getting ready for hagim (Jewish Holidays). We were invited out for most meals but we decided to host Wednesday night dinner so that will take a bit of advanced planning. The menu is pretty much done. We were also glad to be forewarned to bring our own machzorim (Festival Prayer Books) to services with us. To that end, we went to a book store around the corner and picked up some prayer books. We also bough two CDs of musicians we have heard recently. We decided that they are both great 'pre-shabbat' artists and they really help set the mood.
It has been a busy week of seeing friends, starting school, getting oriented and preparing for the start of a new year in so many ways. We are really looking forward to 5771. Shana Tova U'Metuka Le’kulam! A Good and Sweet Year to all!
Last week of freedom

Aviva braids her challah dough in preparation for Shabbat.
This Shabbat put an end to our last week of pre-class touring and settling in to our new home in Israel. Yesterday, we attended our last session at Ulpan Aviv and received certificates for having completed level 4 of their program. Today, I began my classes at Pardes and Aviva begins her classes at the Interdisciplinary Center on Wednesday. Here is a recap of our last week of freedom:
Our ulpan went fantastically well. Aviva and I really enjoyed our teacher, Tehilla. She is patient, smart and quite funny. Not only does she teach us Hebrew, but also provides us with insider information on Israeli society, humor, history and customs. Tehilla occasionally let us drift from our curriculum and learn vocabulary for other topics of interest. I spoke with her about Torah, American Judaism, theology and photography. She and Aviva swapped challah recipes, chatted about the role of women in Jewish ritual life and the differences between American and Israeli Judaism. We hope to be able to keep meeting with the instructors at Ulpan Aviv throughout this year, even if only once every couple weeks.
On Thursday we traveled to Tel Aviv to meet up with my Israeli friend, Daphna. I met Daphna on a trip here in 2002 and we have kept in touch ever since. Aviva and I both really enjoyed catching up with her. Daphna picked us up at the bus station in Tel Aviv and brought us to a restaurant called Goshen (see pictures here, here and here). We had originally intended on going out to a reasonably priced sushi place, but then Daphne informed us that this week is Ma’ariv Gourmet. Ma’ariv Gourmet is similar to Restaurant Week in New York City. Really nice restaurants in Jerusalem and Tel Aviv open their doors to poor student folk like us with menus priced at about 80 NIS. We enjoyed amazing food and even more amazing company. We shared appetizers and entrees including: panko crusted chicken wings, a tomato and eggplant tort, roast beef crustinis, a mixed grill of sausage, spring chicken and kabob, hamburger and sirloin steak. We did NOT share dessert as we all ordered the same chocolate souflee. We arrived back to Jerusalem happy and very full.
We do not normally enjoy such an active night life. Usually we prefer reading in bed to being out partying late, but Thursday was an exception. After returning from Tel Aviv we went to a friend’s house for a birthday/housewarming party. We are still getting used to weeks that begin on Sunday and end on Thursday night, so I guess our late Thursday was just a sign of our growing sense of Israeliness.
I continue to attend Eastern tradition Selichot services in the morning. As I mentioned in my earlier post (previous link), this style of service is lead by people in the community taking turns singing and reading. When I attended these services in Boston, I didn’t really think twice about participating. In Israel however, I have been sitting on the edge of my seat for the past two weeks wanting to participate, but not having the guts to join in. The difference between Boston and Jerusalem is that in Boston we are a group of Eastern European Jews that have adopted this Eastern custom. In Jerusalem, I attend a real Kurdistani synagogue. They have real accents and have all been showing up to synagogue to perform this rite each Elul since they became Bar Mitzvah. I knew it was getting close to my time to pipe up when one of the regulars walked by me last week and mumbled under his breath, (in Hebrew, of course) “READ!” In the days following, he would nod his head toward me at certain points where beginners usually lead the service. Finally, on Friday, I remembered that if I stop to breath before singing, that someone else will always begin singing and take away my chance at a turn. I took a turn singing this piyyut, or liturgical poem. Afterward, people smiled. One of the regulars congratulated me on breaking the glass ceiling. The downside to reading once is that they expect you to do it again. The next day, a few of the people who have taken in interest in me straightened up in their seats and pointed to me at the part where I led the previous day. They might be proud of me or they might just like to laugh at my awful American accent. I’d like to think it is a little of both.
One of the other exciting parts of last week is that many of my Hebrew College classmates and other American friends have begun their journeys in Jerusalem. My hevruta (study partner), Philip, arrived last week along with his wife, Leah, who will be studying with me at Pardes. Philip and Leah stayed with us for almost a week as they waited for their apartment to be ready around the corner. Having them here, as well as the others that have arrived, is really adding a wonderful sense of community to this adventure. On Friday night, Aviva and I hosted seven guests for Shabbat dinner. All of my classmates who have arrived were included in addition to a few other special guests. I was noticeably overjoyed by their presence at our Shabbat table.
Many of us got together again on Shabbat afternoon to enjoy another meal together. On Shabbat afternoon, Aviva and I took Philip and Leah for a walk to the Jerusalem Bird Observatory. Our feathered friends were a bit quiet, but we were glad to have introduced two new visitors to this special place.
This Shabbat also happened to be the fifth birthday that captured Israeli Soldier, Gilad Shalit, has spent in captivity. After Shabbat, there was a large demonstration in front of the Prime Minister’s residence, where Gilad’s parents, Noam and Aviva, have been camped out since the middle of June. (See our previous post on the subject here). This demonstration was better organized and attended than the last demonstration which marked 1500 days since Gilad’s capture by Hamas. Speakers included the 2009 Nobel laureate in chemistry Prof. Ada Yonath; singers Yardena Arazi and Gidi Gov; the parents of Ehud Goldwasser, who was kidnapped and killed by Hizbullah in 2006; Nava Barak, ex-wife of Defense Minister Ehud Barak; and MK Ronit Tirosh (Kadima). Also, The acting French ambassador read a statement from President Nicolas Sarkozy.

Gilad’s father, Noam Shalit, makes the final remarks at a demonstration on his
son’s birthday.
Gilad’s cause is mainly supported by the political left in Israel. The speakers sent their message loud and clear. Gilad fulfilled his obligation to his country, and now his country is not fulfilling its obligation to him. Namely, to free him at any cost. It has been almost a year since there has been any videos released of Gilad, and eight months since the last time any real proposals for a deal came between Hamas and the Israeli government. Those on the right of this issue argue that freeing 1,000 terrorists for one captured soldier is not a fair deal and that Israel must use other means (=force?) to free Gilad. I have found that Israelis think black and white in terms of politics. Not being an Israeli allows me to stand somewhere in gray on this issue. On one hand, I walk by Aviva and Noam Shalit on the street in front of the Prime Minister’s compound nearly every day. I want nothing more than to see their son returned to them quickly and safely. On the other hand, Israel needs to think much more creatively about how to make this happen. In the meantime, we just hope and pray. Watch video here---->Gilad Birthday Demonstration
More news soon from this amazing place. Sending love to you all.
The road to the City of David

Sporting some dapper rolled-up shorts, Scott stands in
one of the few parts of Hezekiah’s tunnels where he could
actually stand! For more info, read the post and watch
this video--->Hezekiah's Tunnels
Scott mentioned at the end of his last post that our plans for the rest of the week consisted of checking out the Jerusalem Beer Festival and some nature movies at the Jerusalem Bird Observatory. Well, we did go to the beer festival on Thursday but, unfortunately, didn't make it to the JBO this week for any of the films. Next time. The beer fest was great fun, though more expensive and definitely not as classy as the Wine Festival. It was hosted at the old Jerusalem Train Station and we had a lovely time trying several different beers from boutique breweries in Israel. There were many other countries represented, but we wanted to stick to the locals and support small breweries here in Israel by purchasing their tasty concoctions - including passiflora (passion fruit) beer from an 8 month old brewery in the Negev, and a restaurant/brewery in Tel Aviv called The Dancing Camel. The bar tender at the Dancing Camel 'bar' overheard us talking with some new friends from Pardes about New Jersey and mentioned that he lived in Teaneck for 8 years! Small world!
On Friday afternoon I was listening to the radio (Galgalatz!) which fits in nicely with my personal goal of training my ear to hear Hebrew spoken quickly and understand it. Every hour the news comes on and I understood, loud and clear, the weather report which said that the heat index in Jerusalem was over 42 degrees Celsius (between 108-110 Fahrenheit) and that it was the hottest day of the year. In spite of the oppressive heat we managed to have a very nice Shabbat. We went to Shira Hadasha again and had dinner at a new friend's house nearby then we slept in on Shabbat morning and prepared to host 8 people for Shabbat lunch. It was a fun and lively crowd and we all stayed inside and enjoyed our mazgan (A.C.) all day.
This morning we got up and began to do our shiurei bayit (homework) for our last week of Ulpan. We got a phone call around 9:30am telling us that our instructor was out sick and we would need to reschedule today's lesson. Scott and I put away our Hebrew and talked about what to do with our free day. We looked into short hikes around Jerusalem that included natural springs or rivers and eventually decided to check out Ir David (the City of David). Ir David is an archaeological site located just south of Mount Moriah (aka The Temple Mount). It is the location of the original city that King David captured from the Jebusites before there was anything else in Jerusalem or on any of the surrounding hills. Guests can visit the site, see a short 3D film about the timeline of the site and take a guided (or self guided) tour.
Scott and I set out on our adventure with 4 liters of water, plenty of snacks, hand written directions from google maps and my map of Jerusalem. I am usually very good with directions (especially when I have a map) but today I took a wrong turn. This 'mistake' let us down into the Hinnom Valley. When I say down into the valley, I mean down. So far down, in fact, that when we realized we had taken a hard right when we should have gone only slightly right, we decided that we there was just no way we could climb back up. So we continued down the hill. When we reached the first intersection we took a left into the Kidron Valley.
The neighborhood of Silwan was to our right on the hillside as we headed north. Silwan is a mostly Arab neighborhood located to the south-east of Mt. Moriah. It is extremely poor and not well maintained. The road eventually ended and became a dirt path. We saw some construction workers and few men sitting under an olive tree. One of them called us over and offered to take us into the underground tunnels. We politely declined his offer but gladly took his directions in order to get to Ir David. From the bottom of the Kidron Valley, guess which direction we had to go to get there! So up went (only about 350 stairs up). After a little bit of confusion at the top of the steps, we saw a guide with an Ir David shirt and asked her where to go. The City of David organization and the sites they are developing have been much discussed with regard to the Arab-Israeli conflict. Before Israel’s independence, the City of David neighborhood was populated with Jewish residents. After Israel’s independence, the area was occupied by Jordan, built up and settled by the Arab’s living there. Since Israel regained control of this area after the 1967 war, there has been no lack of tension between its Jewish and Arab residents.
We finally found the ticket booth, paid our entrance fee, got our map and settled in to watch the 3D film. It was kind of cheesy and very straight forward in terms of the beliefs of the founders of the City of David organization. We then took ourselves on a tour of the site, a lot of which we had already seen by virtue of the way we entered, but now we had the map and the tickets to get us into Hezekiah's Tunnel. This tunnel, also called the Siloam Tunnel, is a massive feat of engineering designed and commissioned by King Hezekiah in the 8th century in order to protect Jerusalem's water source, which was outside the city walls, from the advancing Assyrian army. "Hezekiah also plugged the upper watercourse of the Gihon waters and brought it straight down to the west side of the City of David. And Hezekiah prospered in all his works." (Chronicles II, 32:30)
Well, the bible is pretty accurate when it comes to this section. So accurate, in fact, that people can walk through these tunnels still today, and yes, you do get wet! The tunnel is extremely narrow and the water was 70 cm deep at its deepest (only one small section) but at about mid-calf for me the rest of the way. Scott took some great pictures. By the end we were wet and exhausted but glad for our adventure. We decided to walk home (which I am regretting now as I sit on my couch and write this) but we took the route that led us along the outside wall of the Old City, past the Dung Gate and Zion Gate and down to the top of the Hinnom Valley.
It was certainly a noticeable contrast as we climbed up the stairs into the neighborhood of Yemin Moshe to get home. After having just been in Silwan, arguably one of the poorest neighborhoods in Jerusalem, to Yemin Moshe, one of the wealthiest. I know it has been said before but today we really felt the ancient and the modern problems of Jerusalem, and by extension, all of Israel. These issues are not going away anytime soon and it isn't clear whether or not an organization like Ir David is helping or making things worse.
Tomorrow we are back to Ulpan for our last week and we have some friends/classmates coming to stay with us until their apartment is ready. School starts next Wednesday for me and I am sure I'll have plenty to write about that. Check back soon!
The early person catches the bird...

Avner, an employee of the Jerusalem Bird Observatory, untangles a fledgling
Syrian Woodpecker from one of the JBO’s nets. (Don’t worry! He was tagged,
measured and released moments later.)
The Hebrew month of Elul is upon us! Jews all over the world celebrate this month as an opportunity for introspection and soul-searching prior to the upcoming holidays of Rosh HaShanah and Yom Kippur. One of the many ways we do this is through Selichot, or penitential prayers. In communities following the Eastern European traditions, these prayers are said during the week leading up to Rosh HaShanah. However in the Eastern tradition, Selichot begin with the second day of Elul.
I have a wonderful teacher in Boston, Rabbi Ebn Leader, who introduced the Eastern tradition of Selichot into our rabbinical school community some time ago. From the first time I experienced it, everything about it spoke to me. In the Eastern European tradition, these prayers are mumbled through each morning. In the Eastern tradition things are done differently. There is not one person that leads these prayers. Rather, individuals take turns singing different stanzas. Each person’s attitude toward the text is reflected in their voice and shared with the room. Voices passionately echo throughout the room. For the past three years I have made every effort to join Ebn and my classmates for these services. Upon entering the Hebrew College Beit Midrash (study room), the Rector of my school, Rabbi Dr. Arthur Green, often exclaimed, “This is the happiest bunch of sinners I’ve ever seen!”
Last Monday evening marked the beginning of the month of Elul. Aviva and I joined some friends at Mahane Yehuda for an event that was happening there. When we arrived I heard familiar music leaving one of the stores of the shuk. It was the piyyut (liturgical poem), “Adon HaSelichot,” being sung in its Eastern tradition. (Click the link to hear for yourself!) I recognized it immediately and knew that I had to find a way to experience this Selichot tradition that I have grown to love. When I arrived home I immediately e-mailed Ebn to seek his guidance.
Ebn told me to get in touch with a friend of his in Jerusalem who would be able to help me. He also warned me that by going to this service I was likely committing to getting up at 4:00 am. In Boston, attending these services meant getting to school 30 minutes early at 7:15 and I thought that was early! I still contacted his friend. I heard back from his friend’s wife on Wednesday evening. Selichot prayers are not said on the first days of the month, so I hadn’t missed anything! She told me that her husband wouldn’t be in that evening and kindly gave me all of the information I needed to get to the right place on Thursday morning. She said her husband would be sure to look out for me.
My alarm clock sounded at 4:00 am on Thursday and somehow I mustered the strength to get out of bed. There is something magical about Jerusalem at 4:30 in the morning. There were hardly cars on the road and few people other than the cluster or two of Israeli teens still hanging out in the park from the night before. The air was cool and the morning dew coated every blade of grass, car and road sign. I guess that is what we mean when we add the words, “Morid HaTal (Cause the dew to fall)” in our daily prayers this time of year.
I walked to the area of Nachlaot and arrived at the doors of the Barashi synagogue just before 5. I hadn’t fully stepped through the door when I was greeted by Ebn’s friend, Drori. He welcomed me into the synagogue, sat me down beside him and guided me through the service. The sanctuary at the Barashi synagogue is decorated quite regally, in the style of the Jews of Kurdistan who were its founders. (I hope to find the courage soon to ask if it is okay to take some pictures and post them on this site!) The service was spectacular. I was so pleased to hear the tunes that were familiar to me, but in such authentic accents and scenery.
I have been back to the Barashi synagogue every day since and am still enamored with the community there. Aviva has even come along twice! On my second day there, Drori invited Aviva and me to join his family for Shabbat lunch. We gratefully accepted and had a magnificent time. I hope this relationship will develop over the year. His family is wonderful and Aviva and I have a lot to learn from them.
Getting up early has its benefits. Last Thursday I met Aviva at the Jerusalem Bird Observatory at 7:00 am after morning services. We joined the staff of the JBO and the kids attending camp there this summer in checking the nets they set up to catch birds. Afterward, we hung around to watch the birds as they were weighed, measured and released. The picture above is of a fledgeling Syrian Woodpecker that they were fortunate enough to catch that morning. Fall migration is upon us, so we hope to return to the JBO soon.
Last Friday I met Aviva at the shuk at 7:00 am. It was quite a different experience than our usual Thursday evening visits. The market wasn’t as crowded and the produce looked even more tasty than usual. We discovered a natural foods store where Aviva bought gluten to add to her challah dough along with the bread flower we found at a local supermarket the day before. With these tools she was able to combat Jerusalem’s high altitudes in the battle for controlling the rising of challah dough. The challah gets better and better each shabbat.
On Sunday morning we caught a 7:00 am bus to Mevasseret Zion to say goodbye to my classmate, Israel, who is heading back to the US for a few months. Israel and his amazing family were our hosts for our first week in Israel as we hunted for apartments. They continued to be lovely hosts and stuffed us with delicious Israeli breakfast goodies before sending us back to Jerusalem.
Also on Sunday, Aviva and I began our Ulpan (Hebrew language study) course. We spend three hours a day (not including homework) speaking Modern Hebrew to Tehilah, our very patient and talented teacher. We are enrolled in a program called Ulpan Aviv, that takes this unique one on one approach to the study of Hebrew. Getting up early in the morning gives us time to do our homework before we begin our studies. In just three days, we are both very pleased at how we’ve progressed.
Up this week: The Jerusalem Beer festival, Movies at the JBO and more!!!
"Mr. Owl. How many buses does it take for Aviva and Scott to get to Herzliya?"

Aviva stands in front of the sign showing visitors the way to the IDC in Herzliya.
Brace yourselves! This is going to be a long one.
On Thursday we returned to the Shuk to begin our preparations for Shabbat. We are getting slightly better at navigating this crazy place.
On Friday night we went to Yakar in Katamon. Yakar is an Orthodox synagogue and community center that prides itself on “Tradition and Creativity.” On Friday nights there are two service options. The downstairs minyan is more “traditional,” while the upstairs minyan is known for being more songful. Aviva and I attended the upstairs service. Without being able to point to specifics, we did not feel very much at home.
However, after services we were made to feel very much at home. A friend of ours invited us to her apartment for dinner. The company and the food were both wonderful. All of the attendees were born in the US although a few of them have made aliyah. Before a few rounds of Taboo, conversation covered Israeli politics, epidemics in the modern Jewish world and a healthy dose of Jewish Geography. On Shabbat afternoon we hosted many of Friday night’s dinner crowd for a very pleasant lunch.
Before lunch, Aviva and I went to Kehillat Moreshet Yisrael for services. Moreshet Yisrael is a Masorti synagogue situated at the hub of all things Conservative Judaism in Israel. While we felt very welcome in this community, we also felt that it was very similar to your average Conservative synagogue in the United States. Again, not quite what we are looking for.
We knew that this community would not be ideal for us, but we went as a result of the difficulty we are having as we try to find meaningful egalitarian prayer experiences in Israel. All of our other prayer experiences in Jerusalem have been in communities with mehitzot, or separations between men and women. In traditional communities, mehitzot are used to preserve modesty between men and women and to deter lustful thoughts during prayer. I am not opposed to mehitzot under the right conditions. In fact, I advocate for experimentation with mehitzot in liberal Jewish communities. In many liberal Jewish communities today, women make up the majority of community leaders, rabbis, lay leaders, program participants etc. I see mehitzot as an opportunity to designate men’s space and women’s space in Jewish communities and to allow all of us to reap the benefits sisterhood and brotherhood. However, I am not thrilled when I find myself in a place where women are not permitted to perform the same ritual acts as men or where the mehitzah is sending any message other than separate but equal. There is a severe need for more traditional egalitarian community options in Jerusalem.
On Sunday morning we took a very short walk to the Museum for Islamic Art. This museum is small and not quite high-budget, but quite fascinating. It presents a nice overview of Islamic history through artifacts and artwork. The museum also happens to house a world-renowned collection of clocks and watches. (The collection belonged to the father of the museum’s benefactor and therefore gets to be housed in the museum’s basement.) Even though the watches and clocks are not Islamic art, this exhibit can’t help but to be the highlight of the entire museum. Another highlight of the museum was sword that had two blades that, after being plunged into a person, would re-stab them as it was pulled out. I thought Aviva was crazy as she explained to me that this sword reminded her of a biblical story where a king was stabbed with a sword resembling the one in the case in front of us. I could not recall any such story. Nor could her parents as we asked them about this later in the day via webcam. Our friend Hal overheard this conversation and said, “Check the book of Judges, chapter 3.” As it turns out, Aviva was correct and would have made her high school bible teachers very proud!
After the museum, Aviva and I headed to check out Ulpan Aviv, an intensive, one on one, Hebrew course. Beginning this coming Sunday, we will spend 30 hours studying Hebrew over the course of 10 days. This does not include homework! We are both excited for this opportunity. While we probably understand 80% of the Hebrew we hear spoken daily, letting go of our English and speaking the language ourselves is proving to be more difficult than we thought.
On Sunday night we met some friends at Hutzot HaYotzer, an artist’s colony that opens its doors for an international arts and crafts festival each summer. The festival was so overwhelming that we’ve decided to go back again this weekend to try to take in the parts we missed. The arts and crafts were gorgeous and the music and entertainers were top notch. The concert for the evening was a group called Kenisiat HaSechel, or Church of Reason. Their music was right up our alley and the crowd was a ton of fun. I left the house without my camera. I will not make that mistake when we return for our second visit.
We continued our week of adventures at Jerusalem’s Biblical Zoo. After five hours of walking around we finally saw everything the zoo had to offer. The Zoo works primarily toward preservation of local wildlife. The collection includes, but is not limited to, animals specifically mentioned in the Hebrew Bible. Each animal appears with its citation from the biblical text. We had a lovely time and agreed that it was one of the nicer zoos we’ve ever visited. Aviva and I were in agreement that the bears were our favorite among all of the animals. There was also an impressive number of aviaries throughout the zoo; another highlight.
After recovering from the zoo, we spent the first moments of Rosh Hodesh Elul at the shuk. On Monday night, the shuk was turned into a venue for live music and celebration. We met some friends and navigated the crowds in an effort to see all that was going on there. With our legs still exhausted from the zoo, we called it a night on the early side and passed out at home.
Tuesday had us falling in love with the Jerusalem Bird Observatory (JBO) all over again. Feeling more confident in our directions, we headed to the JBO in the afternoon. On the way, we noticed a person walking in front of us who seemed to be dressed for bird watching. I also noticed that he was carrying a stuffed Lowepro backpack (a brand of camera bag). More importantly, he seemed to know a shortcut! After oddly stalking him for a few moments, we finally asked him if he was heading to the JBO. He took us on an unmarked path that forced us to traverse some pretty steep hills. However, it generously cuts down on the time it takes to get there. The first thing we did at the JBO was to check out their bird blind. To our surprise, we were greeted by a White Throated Kingfisher posing for us on a branch over the small pond. I pulled out my camera and captured this picture. Not to get fresh, but I tried not to envy the enormous zoom lens that the kind gentleman who led us to the JBO had in his backpack. I later learned that he is nature photographer, Marco Jona. He was teaching a nature photography class at the JBO later that evening. After the kingfisher flew off, we joined a staff member of the JBO for the weekly Tuesday evening bird walk.
We rested up on Tuesday evening in order to make our maiden voyage to the Interdisciplinary Center in Herzliya where Aviva will work toward her Master’s degree this year. For some reason, there is no easy way to get from Jerusalem to Herzliya without a car. This has been a source of anxiety for us as we made our decision to live in Jerusalem this year. We took four buses each way in order to get from our house to the Jerusalem Central Bus Station, to the Arlozorov Station in Tel Aviv, to the Central Bus Station in Herzilya and finally to the entrance of the IDC. Fortunately, Aviva will only have class two days a week. We are also hopeful that she will find carpools from our neighborhood. Once at the school, we visited the building for the Lauder School of Government, Diplomacy and Strategy. Aviva met with an administrator at the school, the financial aid office and with the dean of her program. The campus is gorgeous and Aviva is very excited to begin her studies there next month.
In the next posting: Will Aviva and Scott get up at 4:00 AM to experience Sephardi Selichot in Jerusalem? We’ll let you know!
JERUSALEM BUMPER STICKER: "SAVE THE KINNERET, DRINK BEER!" (OR WINE?)

Protesters gather to mark Gilad Shalit’s 1500th day since being captured by Hamas in 2006.
We have been staying inside in the air conditioning during the hottest parts of the day so we have been having most of our adventures this week in the evenings and at night. On Tuesday we ventured out around 4pm to head up the street to a rally to mark the 1500th day that Gilad Shalit has been held captive my Hamas. As we wrote in an earlier post, Shalit's parents have been camped out at the top of Azza Street in front of the Prime Minister's house for about six weeks. They are there indefinitely to pressure the Israeli government to negotiate whatever terms necessary for their son's release. The rally featured about 2000 people who formed a human chain around the block. Each person in the chain was given a number between 1 and 1500 and a mask of Gilad's face. Many were carrying signs and chanting things like "!ביבי, עד מתי? גלעד עדיין חי" "Bibi, how long? Gilad is still alive”
Overall, we were sort of unimpressed with the rally. There was a small turnout considering the tens of thousands of people who marched with the Shalit family from their home in the north to Jerusalem just a few weeks ago. Also, the rally was very disorganized, which, I suppose is typical of Israeli rallies. We left after about an hour. Scott took some pictures and then we headed home.
A few hours later we joined some friends at the Jerusalem Wine Festival at the (newly renovated) Israel Museum. We love that we live walking distance to the museums and since we had done the walk a few days ago to get to the Bible Lands Museum we were confident in our sense of directions and therefore made it there a bit faster (uphill, always uphill). The festival featured wines from dozens of Israeli wineries. We had heard of almost all of them but many were wines that are not distributed in the US. For just 60NIS each we got wine glasses and unlimited tastings. The wineries were all set up outdoors in the sculpture garden; it was a cool and lovely evening and we even ran into an old Yavneh friend of mine who is now living in Jerusalem with her husband.
On Wednesday we left Jerusalem and made our way to Modiin. Another Yavneh-friend of mine lives there with her husband and three-year-old daughter. We intended to take a bus to Modiin but we underestimated the Jerusalem city buses and we missed our intended bus. Also, the largest bus company is Egged, but Egged does not operate buses from Jerusalem to Modiin. Since we were dealing with another bus company and stops were in different places and we were not sure of exactly where to go. Thankfully, we were already at the the Central Bus Station so we went inside and found a Sherut. This word literally means 'service' but it is used to mean bathrooms and shared taxi services. Each sherut fits about 10 people. They are generally a little more expensive than buses but much less expensive than taxis. In fact for both of us in both directions, the sherut cost up less than $1 more than the bus would have.
We had a wonderful time with our friends. They put together a beautiful spread for dinner. Their daughter drew us a picture which she told us is for our 'mekarer' (refrigerator) and we read some Hebrew books together. Overall a great time and now that we know how to get from Jerusalem to Modiin we will surely make that trip frequently.
Since today is Thursday and we are already thinking about Shabbat, we took another little trip through the Machane Yahudah market today. This time, we stuck mostly to the Iraqi Shuk which is off of the main market and features better prices on fresher-looking produce. We made a list and tried to stick to it. We filled our granny cart for about $50.
This evening we met up with an old Schechter acquaintance of mine and her husband. He and I will be classmates at the IDC in a few weeks and we had some mutual friends from NJ that encouraged us to get together. We are glad we did! We loved meeting them and their puppy and had a lovely stroll on Emek Refaim this evening.
Upcoming this week: Shabbat, potential Ulpan on Sunday, Herzliya on Wednesday and more festivals!
It was Sunday, so we went to church!

Aviva overlooks the city of Jerusalem from Gan Sacher.
The story of our first Shabbat really begins Thursday evening.
On Thursday we attempted to go to Machane Yehuda, the shuk/market, in Jerusalem. We completely forgot that the city buses would not be running in our neighborhood due to the Jerusalem Gay Pride Parade. After a kind passerby saw us waiting at the bus stop and reminded us of this fact, we quickly hailed a taxi to take us to our destination. As much as he tried, our driver could not take any of the usual ways to the market as all of the streets were blocked. So we made a rather large detour, paid more cab fare than we had hoped and finally arrived at the market.
The market was full of people preparing for Shabbat. Among them happened to be an old friend and coworker of ours from New Jersey who is now living in Israel and a former classmate of Scott’s. We’ve been to the market many times before, but never for more than a quick snack or a kilo (or three) of Marzipan ruggelach. We were prepared to shlep our loot with the “granny cart” that we purchased from the hardware store on our street. We were so impressed with the selection, quality and prices. When comparing prices to those we are used to paying in the States, we were utterly astonished. Aviva was especially proud of her 11 NIS kilo of figs, her 7 NIS head of lettuce and bunch of mint and her 4 loaves of challah for 30 NIS.
We brought two of those loaves of challah to a new friend’s house who invited us for Shabbat dinner. We met at his house at the start of Shabbat and walked together to Reshimu, an outdoor Carlebach-style minyan in Nachlaot. The minyan featured lovely singing and a very pleasant atmosphere. Our friend told us that he has been there when it has been even more lively, so we are looking forward to going back. Afterward, we enjoyed a delicious dinner at our friend’s house with great company.
Shabbat morning we slept late and prepared to host our first Shabbat meal in our new apartment. After lunch and chatting, we went for a walk around our apartment building. We had yet to see the entire building in the daylight. After making the full circle, we were flagged down by our next door neighbor, Rachely, who invited us to sit and chat. Rachely has been living in this building since 1947. She sat us down, force fed us chocolate and told us much of her magnificent life story. We are sure that this visit will be the first of many posts featuring our new “Savta Rachely.”
Then it was Sunday, so we went to Church! No, but really, we got up early Sunday morning and walked to the Old City. We couldn’t believe that we had been in Israel for two weeks and hadn’t yet visited the Old City of Jerusalem. Our experiences thus far had solely involved the “Earthly Jerusalem,” and we were feeling very much in need of getting a taste of the “Heavenly Jerusalem” as well. Our walk to the Old City took us through a brand new, American-style pedestrian mall on Mamilla Street. It is quite ironic that this brand new mall on an ancient street overlooks the walls of the Old City and leads to Jaffa Gate.
After entering through the gate, we decided to take a walk through the Christian Quarter as Scott had never been and Aviva hasn’t since her first visit to Israel 15 years ago. We walked through the Christian market and noticed that many of it’s stores were closed because it was Sunday. We admired the facade of the Church of the Redeemer, but decided we were a bit underdressed for the 10:30 worship, and continued on to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. It was packed with pilgrims from all over the world who came to visit the tomb of Jesus. We were both stunned by its beauty.
We left the church and walked back through the Christian Quarter and directly into the Cardo. After poking around there for a bit, we walked to the Western Wall. We both struggled with our feelings regarding this most holy place. On the one hand, our tradition believes it is as close as one can get to the dwelling place of God. On the other, it is tainted by the fact that it is representative of some of the biggest issues in Israeli politics today. The men enjoy a larger section with an indoor, air conditioned space filled with seating and holy books. The women squeeze into a much smaller area with no amenities whatsoever. Many non-Orthodox Jews are alienated by the Israeli Rabbinate’s control over the holy site.
Sunday also happened to be an oppressively hot day. After walking back in the 105 degree heat, we decided to spend the afternoon in our air-conditioned apartment. However, apparently many of our neighbors had the same idea. With our tiny flashlight, Aviva opened up our pocket dictionary and learned the Hebrew phrase for a power outage.
This morning we decided to let our sightseeing take us to an air-conditioned place. We walked to Museum Row and visited the Bible Lands Museum. They had a wonderful exhibit that explored the roots of Jewish magical practices through the ages. Their other exhibits were nice as well.
After walking home again in the heat, we returned home till sundown. When it was safe to go out again, we went to an event welcoming new students to Pardes, the school where Scott will study this year. The reception included snacks, shmoozing and a bit of learning to finish up the night. It was exciting to meet some of Scott’s new classmates and make some new friends.
Plans for the rest of the week include checking out some of Jerusalem’s exciting summer festivals and meeting friends in Modi’in and Tel Aviv.
Umm, We live in Jerusalem!

Aviva pays for pastries at Marzipan, our favorite bakery in Jerusalem.
A few weeks ago, we spent Shabbat morning with Aviva’s Bubbe at her synagogue, Bet Am Shalom in White Plains, NY. Earlier that week, Aviva’s Aunt Debbie had tipped off the Rabbi that we would be in synagogue that Shabbat as part of our pre-Israel goodbye tour. The moment we walked into the synagogue, we were approached and given an aliyah, the honor of reciting the blessings before and after the reading of the Torah. After our recitation of the blessings, the community’s Rabbi, the amazing Rabbi Lester Bronstein, asked the God who blessed our ancestors to bless Aviva and me so that this year in Israel would for the rest of our lives be a spring from which we will be able to draw waters of renewal. This was one of the most beautiful blessings I have ever received. It even meant more that it was from a Rabbi that I love, respect and very much wish to emulate.
We have been here just a week and I can already tell that Rabbi Bronstein’s blessing has descended upon us in full force. It took us less than a week to find an apartment. I think we saw close to twelve apartments over the course of our first few days here. We kept saying that we would know as soon as we walked through the door. This couldn’t be more true. I’d prefer not to share too much information about our building, but I will say that it is an historic building in the perfect location for us. We refer to it as our gem, our little oasis in this crazy city. Please feel free to e-mail us and we will be happy to share some of the amazing history of our new home.
Setting up the new apartment has been stressful, but rewarding. It still seems odd that we live here. After trips to the local mall and the supermarket this place is really beginning to feel like home. After ten hours of fiddling and waiting on hold with technical support today, we have our internet and phone all set up. It feels good to be in communication with our family and friends.
We have gotten into a bit of a routine where we are busy with apartment things in the morning (the plumber came today and the internet guys) and then by the late afternoon we need a break so we go out for a walk and explore different parts of our neighborhood. Yesterday we decided to track down the Jerusalem Bird Observatory. We have been talking about finding this place and being there all the time. It turns out that we live less than 2 kilometers (yes, we are learning the metric system) from the JBO and yet no one we met along the way knew what were were talking about when we asked how to get there. We were reminded of mommy Laura’s story of trying to find the JBO on her last trip to Israel. We took the long way around, through Sacher Park (like the central park, or ‘commons’ of Jerusalem) and the Wohl rose gardens and finally around to the front of the Knesset (Israeli Parliament) building where a friendly guard was able to pint us in the right direction. We arrived just in time to hear a shot lecture and watch a bird banding demonstration - all in Hebrew! But we followed along and got information about how to become members and volunteer. While at the JBO we saw our first Hoopoes - Israel’s National Bird. We can’t wait for fall migration to begin.
Each day this week during our afternoon/evening outings we have run into friends from the States. In Talpiot we saw Shira P., a classmate from Rutgers University. Yesterday we saw our Boston buddy and HUC rabbinical student, Miraim F. (also a neighbor just a few blocks away) and tonight on Ben Yehuda St. (where we had our first yummy bite of falafel) we saw Josh R. also from RU. He recognized Scott even though by the time he got to Rutgers Scott had already graduated! Friends from the Boston area and Hebrew College are starting to pour in and we have been getting together with them to welcome them and share our weeks worth of wisdom.
A few other things worth mentioning:
-Not far from our apartment, the family of captured Israeli soldier, Gilad Shalit, has been camping out in front of the Prime Minister’s home since last month. You can walk by and speak with the family. Many Israeli’s have taken to wearing bright yellow ribbons to show their support for the Shalit family and their wish that he be returned under any conditions. On several occasions, there have been other factions protesting across the street from the Shalit family. This small percentage of Israeli society is less willing to make the huge sacrifices (both monetary and of releasing hundreds of Palestinian prisoners) that will be necessary to bring Gilad home. We expect to write a fuller post about this as there are events planned for the upcoming 1500 day marker since Gilad’s capture.
-Our Hebrew skills are growing daily. Though we have yet to sign up for Hebrew classes, we are getting our education by refusing to speak to waiters/waitresses in English, carrying our dictionary with us everywhere and translating signs, newspapers, supermarket products etc. We understand much more easily than we speak. At one point in dealing with the cable companies, Scott was speaking slowly in English to a technician who understood English, but had trouble speaking it. The technician spoke to Scott in Hebrew, which he understood well.
-We’ve noted some funny/disturbing differences between American and Israeli society. Some include:
Very few bike helmets
Rear facing car seats in the front seat of the car
Not many people who clean up after their dogs
**More to come, we’re sure!**
That is it for now. We are going to head to Mahane Yehuda (The shuk/market) to get some things for Shabbat. Tomorrow we are heading back to Mevasseret Zion to our initial host family’s home for a birthday party! Stay tuned for a post about our first Shabbat in our new apartment!
JUST FLEW IN TO ISRAEL AND BOY ARE OUR ARMS TIRED!

A picture we took this morning using the camera on Scott’s Laptop.
We were excited to be sitting on Ben Yehudah Street using free Wi-Fi to hunt for apartments.
After a one hour delay at Newark, Scott and I boarded Continental flight 84 to Tel Aviv and thankfully had a very smooth and uneventful flight. We arrived in Israel on Monday morning, July 19, made it through passport control, retrieved all 4 of our enormous bags from baggage claim and went quickly through customs. We found the taxi stand with ease, got a ticket from the dispatcher and aided the driver in loading our obese bags into the trunk. Two of the bags did not fit in the car and had to be hoisted on the roof rack and strapped down. The driver called Scott, Shimshon (Samson - the first Jewish strong-man). We arrived in Mevaseret Tziyon, a beautiful town just outside Jerusalem, where we phoned our hosts, Aliza and Israel, so that they could give our driver directions to the back of their building where there are a few steps down to the apartment rather than three flights up from the street level. When we arrived, Scott again helped with the bags and this time the driver called him Rambo!
We settled in and showered and then it was time for lunch. We drove down to the mall where one of Aliza's sons is a security guard and ate a meal of kosher McDonald's. Scott and I do not eat fast food in the US so this was a special treat and one we feel that we got out of our system. There is so much good food in Israel; no need to waste meals on McDonald's just because it is kosher, right?
Monday night began Tisha B'Av. After a rest in the afternoon, we had a quiet meal and went to the Reform synagogue in town; KaMaTz - Kehilat Mevaseret Tziyon. We were exhausted but we were pleased that we went to the ma'ariv service and reading of Eicha. In between each chapter of Eicha, congregants read poems or other texts relating to the observance of the Holy Day. As Scott wrote in his previous post, it felt a little strange to be commemorating the destruction of Jerusalem while looking out from the large picture windows at the modern city. Still, it was a good experience and we followed the whole Hebrew service.
We have been learning so many Hebrew words since our arrival. We find it very funny when we try to read a word in Hebrew and it turns out to be an English word written in Hebrew letters. This afternoon we passed a pilates studio and had a good laugh over how they spell pilates in Hebrew. We also learned the word 'mokesh'. It literally means land mine but here it also refers to piles of dog poo, which are, unfortunately, all over the place here. It seems that people just let their dogs go in the middle of the sidewalk and feel no obligation to pick up after them.
After a great night of sleep were were up early this morning. Our first task was to purchase Israeli cell phones. Our hosts drove us into town and took us to a cell phone shop where we were able to compare plans and rates. We were able to unlock my phone and put an Israeli SIM card into it. Scott purchased an inexpensive Nokia and an Israeli SIM card. In Israel, contracts are not common. Most people pre-pay for a block of minutes and purchase more minutes when they start to run low. This is exactly what we did. If you are in Israel and want to call us, let us know and we will give you our phone numbers.
We walked all around the city today and we were very impressed by all the places that we could get a wi-fi signal; on a bench near the Islamic Museum, on Ben Yehuda Street, and in Rehavia. This is the neighborhood where we began our apartment hunt. We saw two places today and we will see at least 4 more tomorrow. One was totally unacceptable and we understood after seeing it why people warned us not to sign a lease on a place until we have seen it in person. The second place was in much better shape but still might not be exactly what we are looking for. Either way, after walking around town we have a much better idea of what we want and the neighborhood where we would like to focus our search. We want to find a place that it about halfway between Pardes, where Scott will be studying, and the Central Bus Station, where I will have to go to catch a bus to Herzliya.
Speaking of busses...Scott and I took our first bus today; from outside the Central Bus Station in Jerusalem back to our host family's home in Mevaseret. We didn't wait long, the ride cost 8.5 shekel each and took about 20 minutes. The bus dropped us off right on the street in front of their house. All in all a great first day!
Pre-Jerusalem and the Nine Days

4 mo. old nephew, Noah. 4 week old niece, Abby.
Adopted Niece and Nephew Liam and Alison.
Part I
One chapter closes for us and another begins. Aviva and I left our apartment of the first three years of our marriage, packed most of our worldly possessions into a storage unit and stuffed the rest into the back of the old Jeep. When we arrived in Massachusetts three years ago, we born, bred and proud New Jersey kids never thought we’d call another place home. In three years we have fallen in love with New England. We have found ourselves some amazing friends and constantly comment on how lucky we feel to have already experienced so much joy in our lives.
Leaving our home was surprisingly difficult. We marveled at how much we had accumulated in the past three years. Packing up wedding gifts and other sentimental items was not without emotional strain. With teamwork and help from friends we spent our days toiling in the dust and managed to spend evenings saying goodbye to family and friends. With great memories, sadness and relief over having completed our heavy task, we pulled out of our driveway for the last time and traveled the all-too-familiar roads from Boston to New Jersey.
Part II
It is here that the fun really began. Two weeks to say goodbye to our friends and family in New Jersey. In the same two weeks we’ve had to acquire everything we think we’ll need for the journey ahead. Now, in these last few evenings, we must stuff all of these belongings into as few airport regulation size and weight bags as possible. Suddenly it feels all too real. As we have explained to nearly all the people we have encountered, “it is just as daunting as it is exciting.”
In the past two weeks we’ve driven nearly 1000 miles around NY, NJ and PA. So many friends have been so accommodating of our crazy goodbye tour. We had some really fun times with some really great people. Such good friends make it difficult to leave.
Of course, our families make it nearly impossible to leave. In our three years in Boston we made it a priority to make it to NJ for as many celebrations and momentous occasions as possible. Webcams and telephones got us through the interim. But seeing our four month-old nephew and one month-old niece on a computer screen is just not the same as holding them in our arms and showering them with our love. They are changing every day and not being there to witness their first year is just killing us. We will miss our parents and siblings very much and will count the days until they come to visit us in Israel.
A quick thought on the Nine Days
The Nine Days refer to the first nine days of the Hebrew month of Av. Just as the Talmud tells us that our joy increases during Adar, (the month when Purim occurs) we are told that as we enter Av, our Joy decreases. (Mishnah Taanit 26b) On the 9th day of the month of Av, we fast in recollection of the destruction of the First and Second Temples in Jerusalem. Though these Temples signify a form of Judaism so far from the hearts of many modern/liberal Jews, they stood as representations of God’s relationship with the Jewish people; where heaven and earth kissed.
The First Temple was destroyed in 586 BCE by the Babylonians and the Second Temple was destroyed in the year 70 CE by the Romans. During these Nine Days, observant Jews act as if in mourning. In fact, some begin their mourning as early as the 17th of the previous Hebrew month, Tammuz. On the 17th of Tammuz, the walls of Jerusalem were said to have been breached by the Babylonians. Observant Jews also mark the 17th of Tammuz as a fast day.
Fast days have always been difficult for me. (Perhaps I’ll explain why in a future posting!?) However, these two fast days that sandwich a time of intense mourning have synched with some of the bigger events of the past three weeks. On the 17th of Tammuz, Aviva and I (with the assistance of our good friend, Hal) moved all of our larger pieces of furniture into our storage unit. We have spent the majority of these three weeks saying our goodbyes to our nearest and dearest friends. We will arrive to the modern State of Israel on the 8th of Av and get to Jerusalem just as her most pious residents are preparing for the second of the two major fast days in the Jewish calendar.
In past years I have mourned in recognition of the centrality of the sacrificial cult and it’s influence on modern Judaism. I have mourned for the moments of destruction that put a stop to the intimate relationship between God and the People Israel. However, this year it just seems funny. I do not feel much like mourning a city that I am prepared to enter with such hope and enthusiasm.
As I head to bed on this last night in the United States for a while, I cannot predict what emotions the 9th of Av will bring. Will I find the strength and reason to mourn, or revel in my ability to make a tikkun, or reparation, for my ancestors whose time in our holiest capital was cut short? I’ll just have to let you know...
Next Year in Jerusalem!

This is a picture of David’s Citadel that I took on a trip to Israel in 2004.
Believe it or not, the clouds really looked like that.
Beginning this July, Aviva and I will embark on a new adventure to live in Israel for just over a year. This has been a long time dream of ours that we are very excited to fulfill. (Even though it is just as daunting as it is exciting...)
As a requirement of my program, I will study at Machon Pardes, The Conservative Yeshiva and elsewhere. Aviva will work toward a Master’s in Government at the Interdisciplinary Center in Herzliya. Aviva will also be working part time for The David Project, an Israel education and advocacy organization, where she has worked for the past three years.
We look forward to studying, perfecting our Hebrew, traveling and living in the Jewish State.
Stay tuned for updates from Jerusalem in July!
Scott